Primer

[JPembleton]

Is a coat of primer needed before painting a filler coated canvas canoe?

A local canoe builder informed me that if I used one of the posted filler formulas (mixed myself) that I may have issues with the paint flaking off or as I have seen on other post blistering. He was trying to be helpful, not sell me anything...
What kind of a product should be used as primer (or "second coat") if it is necessary before painting.



Anyone have issuse with this formula:

* 43 oz. double-boiled linseed oil
* 21 oz. mineral spirits
* 34 oz. enamel
* 2 oz. Japan drier
* 2 oz. spar varnish
* 6.25 lbs. powered silica (300-325 mesh)

Jamie

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Hi Jamie

Primer is NOT needed, but tends to fill the filler better, tends to sand better, and is cheaper. I've done it both ways.
Regards, Dave.

 

[Mark Adams]

Hi,

That is the filler receipe I have used for almost 20 years now. I have never had a problem with paint flaking off. I have used primers when I haven't been able to rub the fiiller out well and that works too. The only thing I have added to the filler is White Lead for it's fungicidal properties.

HTH,

Mark

 

[JPembleton]

treated canvas or lead type material?

Hi,

That is the filler receipe I have used for almost 20 years now. I have never had a problem with paint flaking off. I have used primers when I haven't been able to rub the fiiller out well and that works too. The only thing I have added to the filler is White Lead for it's fungicidal properties.

HTH,

Mark

Thanks Mark for the confirmation on the filler recipe.

Are fungicides (white lead or treated canvas) needed with an oil based filler?
I don't believe i'll be using and lead intentionally with two small kids kicking around and I've heard the treated canvas is not much safer.

What's everyone preference? treated canvas or lead type material in the filler?

Jamie

 

[Louis Michaud]

I use that mix. I replace the mineral spirits with a clear preservative: zinc naph....something from the hardware store. Gloves when putting on the filler, well ventilated area, etc. I also skip the varnish. Expect a minimum of 5-6 weeks of drying time. The zinc stuff I also mix with the BLO that goes on on the hull before canvassing.

Hope this helps.

Louis Michaud
Rimouski, Quebec

 

[Andy Hutyera]

I'm interested in the filler formula. What on earth is double boiled linseed oil?
My understanding is that boiled linseed oil isn't really boiled, it just has driers
added to it. I've never heard of "double boiled." Where is it available?

 

[JPembleton]

I use that mix. I replace the mineral spirits with a clear preservative: zinc naph....something from the hardware store. Gloves when putting on the filler, well ventilated area, etc. I also skip the varnish. Expect a minimum of 5-6 weeks of drying time. The zinc stuff I also mix with the BLO that goes on on the hull before canvassing.

Hope this helps.

Louis Michaud
Rimouski, Quebec

Louis,
in the formula do you replace all of the 21 oz' of mineral spirits with zinc napthanate or do you use less? or a combination of the 2?

Anyone have thoughts about adding in some Zinnesseres bathroom paint to the formual (it has a mold and mildew additive already in it). I have half a can already sitting around the house so I thought I might add a couple of ounzes to the formual.

Jamie

 

[Louis Michaud]

Yes, 21 oz of zinc napheteate. I don't know if it's enough to deter the bad criters and mold... It's compatible with oil paints because it's mineral spirits used to transport the zinc into the wood. Is there a chemist reading these posts? The first canoe I did using this filler was 4-5 years ago and it's holding up well even if a really short time. The reason for those wide spaces between the planks in a "Huron" is so you can check the state of the canvas from the other side of the filler...

Louis Michaud