Planking Question - old tack holes

greenvilleguy

'42 Yankee OTC
I have 16 to 20 ribs to replace which means pulling a lot of tacks. Most of the time, I can carefully pull the old tack and tack the new rib using the same hole in the planking covering up the original hole.

Sometimes, however; the original tack will be so well clenched that it is impossible to pull it without leaving a hole in the planking.

Here is my question: Do you guys try and fill those holes or do you just leave them? If you fill them, what do you use?
 
Stop!!!

One way to be gentle on the planking is to drive the tack out from the rib-side with a punch or nail set. The ribs are sacrificial at this point. Doing that will push the tack head above the planking to be proud enough that you can get your tack puller under the head cleanly and easily. To go one step farther use a piece of wood, say... like a stir stick, under the tack puller to protect the plank as you pull the tack.

Try this method...you'll save a lot of plank damage.
 
Tack pulling

I employ two methods. the ribs are goners so I use a narrow woodchisle to dig around the clenched tack, then clip it off with some side cutters. I can they push it through to the planked side and pull it out easily. Another way I do is is to grind the clench off with an air tool with a grinding bit, then tap it out with a nail set or similar tool. Both methods are effective.
 
Thanks! I'll switch to clipping the clench from the inside. I've ground my tack puller where it is more like a very narrow pair of chisels on the ends so it's easy to get under the tack head.

But I already have a number old tack holes, should I try and fill them?

Also, the driving the new tack leaves a hammer "dimple". Should I tried to raise them with hot water or something.
 
making way for new ribs

Lots of ways to do this....The first thing is to get the rib tops free. If the fasteners show above the plank edge I dig around with the tack puller and yank them out. As an aside, the ringed nail of today can be a bear to withdraw, and I love the old steel nail at this time. Then I take a wide screw driver and attack the ribs at various tack points or where the grain looks to be cooperative. Use a forceful dig and twist. This action splits the wood and allows for the rib to be taken out with no or little attention to the clenched tacks. However, if you wish to use the holes once more, then it is a good idea to run along and clip the clenchings where they persist, at the same time pushing the tack out a bit.
If you pay attention to the grain etc, you will be surprised how quickly one can cleanly extract an old rib.
Have fun, you will not have to do this for another hundred years, right ? Dave DeVivo
 
When I have to remove ribs to replace, I just go at the old one with an angle grinder from the inside. Grind mostly where all the tacks are and the heads will simply fall out on the outside and the rib will pop right out. Fast work and no tearing of wood.
 
I asked Mike Elliot of Kettle Rivers the same question on his Face Book wall the same question as I saw filled nail holes in the photos of his restorration business. His answer was a good exterior grade nail hole filler. I would imagine it would be a good idea to give all such repairs a good shott of sealer of somesort just to be sure.
I have gotten much better since that first rib and have given it a little filler help myself.

Mikes FB page:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Ke...e-Repais-and-Restorations/50527034394?sk=wall
 
Thanks Tom. I tried cutting the clench off from the inside by spilting the ribs and using a grinder, but the fastest method for me is still pulling from the outside. I agree with Roland's comments in "The Book".

I've gotten much better at it and now rarely leave a hole that can't be reused with the new tack. Still, there are some places from my first attempts that need to be filled. I'm glad to hear the Mike Elliot uses exterior grade nail hole filler. That certainly adds the creditabiltiy to using it, that I'm looking for.
 
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