Painting questions

[Tariacuri]

Uggg - very frustrated, painting a 47 OT 18' guide. I had major problems getting the filler fair and with priming. The high points are sanded down to the filler (so grey), low points are white primer.

1) Using Kirby's - thinned according to the Mike Elliot book, two cups thinner to gallon of paint. Also added a small amount of Kirby's conditioner. Apparently it is too thin because it is not covering anything very well, can clearly see the the darker areas through the paint, I'm at two coats right now with no sanding. Is it just too thin or do I need to prime it again so everything is white? I suspect the dryness here is wreaking havoc on whatever standard thinner/paint ratio people use. We are currently at 38% humidity which is elevated for the High Plains area.

2) There are a few places where the weave of the canvas is visible in the primer. I had assumed that the paint would cover this but . . . do I need to cover these areas with quick fair?

Think I might grab a beer
Chris

 

[Gil Cramer]

Grab 2 or 3 beers. Either use quick fair or automotive putty on the spots where the weave shows through the filler. Forget any primer. Wet sand the hull with 220 grit. Paint again. Let dry overnight. Wet sand with 360 grit. Paint again. Let dry overnight. Wet sand with 360 grit. Paint again. Continue until no difference is detected between the previous painting. Drink at least 2 beers after each sanding.

 

[Bo Saxbe]

Drink at least 2 beers after each sanding

For efficiency reasons, this is why you should plan on either six, or twelve coats.

 

[Tariacuri]

OK, thanks Gil, I'm taking growlers to the brewery right now. Resigned to more days of fairing and sanding. I was just so ready to 'get er done'.

 

[MGC]

Grab 2 or 3 beers. Drink at least 2 beers after each sanding.

I've said it before and it bears repeating, there are true experts and experienced craftsman making appearances on this site. Such sage advice has no price tag.
Ahhhh, weedhopper, more beers please. Soon the Kirby's will look just right.
McGrievy's thing was gimlets... after a couple of those even the runs start to disappear.

 

[Todd Bradshaw]

Standard marine painting procedures (or at least the typical practices of those who do it professionally) generally dictate thinning and/or conditioning enamels on an "as needed depending on how the job is going and the paint is performing" basis, rather than any sort of pre-determined formula which does not take the current conditions and performance into account. Since various minerals and substances may be contained as pigments in different paint colors, they also may not all have the same consistency, even though they are the same brand and type of paint. Condition or thin your paint as needed, if and when needed, to improve the way it is handling on the project, not because you read a blanket statement somewhere that told you to do it.

 

[Tariacuri]

I for sure thinned it too much. I'm working at a bit of a loss as I don't have experience with what the correct consistency should be - guess I will learn (LOL).

 

[Dan Miller]

Drink at least 2 beers after each sanding.

only two?

what color are you painting? Red, from any paint company, can be very problematic.

Also, always follow the directions on the can, not the advice from someone who didn’t make the paint. Not all thinners work properly with all paints. As I recall, the only thinner Kirby recommends is Kirby’s Paint Conditioner.

If you continue having trouble, call Kirby’s and George will help you troubleshoot.

 

[Tariacuri]

It is red, I'm only getting started, had planned on many more coats. Did think with Kirby's paint conditioner.

 

[MGC]

Good advice from Gil, Todd and Dan.
The Kirby paints can be a challenge to get right. They need to be thinned more than most other paints. As Dan notes, red can be a challenge. You really should talk to George. He's seen it all. He might be able to send you enough paint to save what you have.
When you are thinning out Kirby's you are trying to get it thin enough to roll out but still leave it thick enough to tip. If it's too thick it will bubble and the bubbles will probably dry before you can get the brush on them to knock them back. I find that I have better luck with Kirby's when it is very thin.
If you are not rolling it, I know of folks who brush it on fairly thickly......and it runs.

 

[Dan Miller]

Red is a PITA. Even masters like Tom MacKenzie had trouble with red (Epifanes) paint. The key to red is gray primer, and even base coating with a different, darker shade of red, like Kirby's See Red, then finishing with the true red. The red over white primer will be pink for many, many coats. There's not enough beer to hide that fact.

(Mike posted while I was typing - to follow on what he said, I roll with a foam roller, and tip with a foam brush.)

 

[Dave Osborn]

Yellow is worse than red.
I have the best luck with Epifanes and Interlux Brightsides red.
4” foam roller and 4” foam brush for application.

 

[Tariacuri]

Well Maybe it is just the red then because it’s rolling on fine and I’m able to tip it no problems, Drying fine, no bubbles, no runs.

 

[JClearwater]

"McGrievy's thing was gimlets..."

Jack introduced me to gimlets many years ago at Assembly. I have been addicted ever since. Just finished one actually...

 

[Tariacuri]

Wow - that took much longer then anticipated. I can't tell you how many thin coats that was. I ended up sanding most of the first few off.

 

[Bo Saxbe]

Looks nice! Sweet Jeep too!