New paint job

[Jay Magruder]

Okay, to set the scene, I am new to wood and canvas canoes. I have a 16' Faber, and have been having a blast learning and exploring the waterways of the Pacific Northwest this summer. I have accumulated light scratches on the canoe bottom exposing the primer, but not down to the canvas. So my question is what is the best process for repainting. I have purchased a quart of Epiphanes mono-urethane paint and have been told to rough up the existing surface to take the gloss off of the existing paint, clean with a tack cloth and paint. But how many coats should I apply. If more than one should the surface be lightly sanded again. Any advice is more than welcome, as I plan to do the job on Labor Day Weekend.

 

[mark wismer]

Start by getting a different paint.

Urethane is almost permanent. The old topside marine enamels are a better choice. Resuduals of silicone based waxes are problematic too. Using traditional materials insures the next restoration will doable without overcoming the space age stuff.

Wet sanding will smoothe out the old surface and help produce a better result. Wash and dry afterwards.

a few light coats, wet sanded, washed and dried in between should [produce nice results...

Remember each additional coat of paint increases the weight of the canoe.

 

[Jay Magruder]

Mark, Thanks for the advice. Are there any brands of enamels you recommend.

 

[Dennis Vidal]

I use Kirby paint. It holds up and covers excellent. A bit pricey at $26 per quart, but well worth it in the long run.

http://www.kirbypaint.com/

 

[mark wismer]

Kirby is very popular, they're rumored to be Old Towns supplier.

Petitt from Rockaway, NJ is another.

Check out the local mom and pop marine store. The last time I paid $22.00 for a quart.

Interlux seems to be dropping their enamel in favor of urethanes.

Same at West Marine

 

[Dave Wermuth]

paint

I use and prefer Kirby. BUT I have seen plain old oil based enamel tractor supply store paints work very well.
John Deere Green
Oliver Green, etc.

however, risking going aginst convention here. why would a urethane paint be bad on canvas? I understand and do not use any poly urethan varnish on wood. but canvas? Seems to me it would be fine. Especially if you already have it.

when the time comes, the canvas is replaced altogether, not generally stripped and etc. like the wood interior.
Regards, Dave.

 

[Jay Magruder]

Well with the long weekend coming and decent (dry) weather forecast for the next couple of days I will proceed with painting. After reading all of the very good advice and researching the paints available locally, I will proceed with the epifanes monourethane. I know this is flying in the face of tradition, but hey I live on the west coast and isn't that part of the deal? I will report the results, the pressure is really on now, wish me luck. I am learning that with canoeing the adventure never ends.

 

[Blue Viking]

I have one!

Can you post a couple of Pictures of your Faber? I have one out back and after the Chestnut is filled and set aside, that is my next project...would love to see a picture of one that is usable and maybe refer to it as a guide in my endeavors....Thanks

 

[Jay Magruder]

I was thinking about some before and after pictures anyway so if I can figure out how to post them I will. Are there any particular details that would be helpful.

 

[Blue Viking]

The way I do it is to take some pics with a camera that can download on to the computer...........type out any message and then go to the bottom of the screen and use the manage attachments setup..........good luck as I am probably the least educated in this endeavor