Looking at a Morris with a #8480. Can anyone give me information about it? Thanks.
Morris # 8480
- Thread starter workingbadger
- Start date
Kathryn Klos
squirrel whisperer
There are no Morris records but if you post pictures of the canoe I may be able to tell you something about this canoe in particular. Serial number 8480 suggests a canoe built in about 1911, based on the few existing numbers we have with corresponding ship-dates.
A BN Morris from this period has mahogany decks, thwarts, and seat frames and the hull is Western cedar. There's information on Morris canoes in general in the KnowledgeBase, with links to some YouTube videos that can walk you through some of the fascinating Morris features.
I've added this serial number to our Morris database but would love to know more about the canoe!
Kathy
A BN Morris from this period has mahogany decks, thwarts, and seat frames and the hull is Western cedar. There's information on Morris canoes in general in the KnowledgeBase, with links to some YouTube videos that can walk you through some of the fascinating Morris features.
I've added this serial number to our Morris database but would love to know more about the canoe!
Kathy
OP
OP
Morris 8480 photos
Here are the current photos. It has arched decks, mahogany rails and seats, and the clinched tacks have a 'dimple' in the center of the head. One outwale is full length (but cracked). Top wales are in place. Both stems are broken, but one is in place. Previous owner saved the beaver tail that broke off, so I have both. No visible rot in the wood that is left. Caning on seats is intact (but needs replacing).
Here are the current photos. It has arched decks, mahogany rails and seats, and the clinched tacks have a 'dimple' in the center of the head. One outwale is full length (but cracked). Top wales are in place. Both stems are broken, but one is in place. Previous owner saved the beaver tail that broke off, so I have both. No visible rot in the wood that is left. Caning on seats is intact (but needs replacing).
Attachments
OP
OP
Apparently it is the screws, not the tacks, that have a'dimple' in the head. It has a very pleasing tumblehome. No decal. Paddles are unmarked also. Should I feel guilty for paying $100 ?
H.E. Pennypacker
LOVES Wooden Canoes
No, not at all! Your canoe has a couple of large holes in it, and one includes a missing stem (the broken-off tip of which you show in one of the pics). But overall this is a nice canoe - the hull looks fair, the ribs seem intact, and the gunwales, seat frames and thwarts all look great from your photos. This can be a beautiful and fully functional canoe again with a little careful work. You've got one good stem to show you how to replicate the other, and you've got rail caps to show you how to replicate the outside and top caps that may be missing or broken. The ribs and planking look good too - just do the cleaner/bleach business and they will probably look spectacular. All good!
OP
OP
What would folks think about making a new stem, and then fairing on the old splayed 'beavertail' ?
And what's the formula for cleaner/bleach. I suppose there is a link here to give me directions. Thanks.
And what's the formula for cleaner/bleach. I suppose there is a link here to give me directions. Thanks.
Kathryn Klos
squirrel whisperer
I would do as you suggest with the "beavertail" part of the stem. My old Morris has a similar break, and it's what I plan... too cool a thing not to put back into the canoe.
Oxalic acid works well on wood... I think if you use the "search" function (upper right) you can find discussions about this. It's found at pharmacies and is something you sign for because it's poisonous. It's mixed with water. Wear gloves. Others here will have suggestions too... but this is what I used years ago when I worked on antique furniture.
Oxalic acid works well on wood... I think if you use the "search" function (upper right) you can find discussions about this. It's found at pharmacies and is something you sign for because it's poisonous. It's mixed with water. Wear gloves. Others here will have suggestions too... but this is what I used years ago when I worked on antique furniture.
H.E. Pennypacker
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Your Morris stems are cedar. To replicate, steam-bend a single piece of cedar from which the entire stem, including the splayed end, is shaped. The cleaner/bleach is discussed here in many threads. Do a search and you'll find plenty of comments, but the best performing brands seem to be Te-Ka and Snappy Teak-Nu, available from a variety of suppliers either locally or online (if you haven't already, check out Jamestown Distributors for an excellent mail-order company). Easy to use and great results. Don't be afraid of the word "bleach" - this is not your run-of-the-mill laundry bleach. Wood treated with laundry bleach - sodium hypochlorite - looks "bleached"... washed out, patina gone. The Snappy and Te-Ka preserve the patina but get out much of the stains that are in the wood.
