Makeshift Clinching Iron

[Bruce Dow]

As part of my restoration, I had to remove about four feet of planking to do one of those blind back-of-rib repairs (I used a paint stir stick to make the spline).

That seems to have gone well.

Here is the story so far:

http://s241.photobucket.com/albums/ff7/brucemdow/Canoe%20Restoration/?albumview=grid

Now it is time to put the planking back on. I ran to Noah's today to get the tacks, but they did not have a clinching iron. Rather than chase one down for one-time use, I am seeking advice on something else I could use.

What have people used as a good substitute "in a pinch"?

- cheek of an axe?
- business end of a sledge hammer?
- other ideas please...

Thanks.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Well Done Bruce

Use ANYTHING. Head of a maul would do in that location. Railroad rail. Hammer head. Just try not to use something that would leave a ding in the soft wood. Auto body shops have cheapie body bump irons. One looks very similr to a regular clinching iron. But more like a big comma. Good job!

Regards, Dave.

 

[Andre Cloutier]

I plumped for a fancy schmancy bronze iron at assembly, but prior to that i used a steel body dolly like Dave mentioned, hit Princess Auto , i like the mushroom
http://www.princessauto.com/view-all-products-in-shop?Search_x=67&Search_y=14&keyword=dolly

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Bronze

I shoulda' got one when they were $60. Mine is iron. But the bronze is way cool. If I recall, Joe Seliga had an interesting home made one.

 

[Bruce Dow]

Thanks for the input. I picked up an auto body dolly for $10 at the Cdn Tire. Let's see how it goes this weekend.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I use a log splitting wedge in tight spots inder the decks.

 

[Bruce Dow]

It worked...

The auto body dolly was a charm.

I got my planks back on and made good progress on my fairing this weekend.

Until now, I thought the best test of spousal communication and patience was wallpapering. Navigating the clinching iron on the other side of the hull beats that hands down.

Thanks for all of the advice.

B.

 

[Scot T]

I'm lucky, my gal enjoys the clinching part of canoe rebuilding. I just crawl under the inverted hull with my little stool and my "Store Bought Brass Clinching Iron" (I had 60 bucks, I think it was, extra that year) and let her hammer away. She's quite good at it...has the knack.

 

[rakwetpaddle]

I have used a rock. Worked great!

 

[tnyankee]

Great information. I was just putting together a grocery list of items I'm going to need for my canoe and this will save me some bucks. Much appreciated!

 

[Thos Doran]

Brakeshoe

I took an old chisel and knocked off the shoe material rasped down to steel and fashioned a cheesy two by four handle.

Used it today. Pretty great. and free.

((But it turns out, too light to be practical))

 

[Steve Ambrose]

Bruce, what are you covering your canoe with?

 

[bluedcanoed]

clenching iron

Modify an old axe head as shown. It seemed a little too light, so I filled the eye with lead.

Bob

 

[Bruce Dow]

Bruce, what are you covering your canoe with?

I am using Dacron (heat shrunk).

I am almost finished the paint job. (I need to get it finished quickly so that I can clear the garage to bring my MG home from my parents' house now that the weather is brightening up)

I was working on it a bit today. I noticed that with the Dacron, there were a few "blisters" that came over the winter. I just ran a warm iron over them, and they shrunk back.

Hopefully, one more coat of paint will do it. Then I can varnish the inside, gunwales, thwarts and seats, and she'll be back in the water by June.

 

[mikel]

I just got a clinching iron for Christmas...The face is very rough. (Unfinished out of the mold.) I'm a bit worried about dragging it along the ribs. Can I file the face smooth or is the rough, pock-marked surface needed to catch the tack tips? I was looking in some old threads but could not find anything.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Andre Cloutier]

File and sand it smooth or it will catch the tips, and keep them from bending over nicely.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Hit it with your belt sander and a coarse belt to start with then go finer.
If you don't have a belt sander, get one. Youll need one at some point or just drag it across some sand paper.
Dave