Harken Hoister

It's pricey (like all Harken stuff) but very nicely engineered. We see them on display every year at Canoecopia and it's pretty much just a matter of pulling one line (one-handed will lift most canoes) and watching the thing go straight up or straight down with all the support lines pulling evenly. No tilting, no wobble, locks preventing accidental dropping, etc. If you're willing to spend the cash, I don't think you can beat it for ease and convenience (it's also pretty tough to beat it, price-wise, by cobbling together a copy unless you happen to have a bunch of small ball-bearing sailing blocks and cleats sitting around). I put together a somewhat similar lift to install and remove the hardtop on our T-Bird, just using a webbing harness and a couple of good fiddle blocks. It works OK, but even so, the blocks, rope and cleat are worth about $90 and it doesn't even approach the hoister in terms of resisting tilting, spinning, etc.
 
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Chuck,
I guess a question I would have is where you want to hoist to. Is it to the ceiling joists or to a second floor in a barn.
Denis
 
Denis,

Garage ceiling. The ceiling is high enough that I can get four canoes above the overhead doors (2) I have been using pulleys and line etc. that are kind of cobbled together. Each side is independent and tying off is sloppy. I only need two hoists for now but don't know if I want to spring for that much. There is plenty of room above the garage if I cut an outside loft door but that gets complicated in hoisting that high especially if your a weakling like me.

-Chuck
 
The information at http://people.csail.mit.edu/jaffer/Canoe/ documents one person’s solution to this problem with a plastic canoe. I once had a large garage with several canoes and kayaks supported on pulleys controlled by a hand winch from an old boat trailer. My current system is a much less sophisticated collection of straps, hooks, and eye bolts with a simple double pulley for getting things to the loft. Let us know what you end up with and how you like it.

Benson
 
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LL Bean is (or was) offering a similar lift that would raise both ends of the boat at the same time, but isn't as resistant to tipping as the Harken. It contains two separate lines that you have to pull together. Was about $60.

It is not in the catalog - you need to call them and ask a customer service agent about it.

I've tried re-rigging some inexpensive bike lifts, but it wasn't worth the trouble.
 
Chuck,
Okay! We have two systems only one of which I can ask Kathy to post photos of. We have a two story barn, the second floor is used primarily for canoe storage. To get the canoes up there- it is eleven feet from ground to bottom of door opening - we bought an inexpensive electric lift from Harbor Freight.
The lift will pick up 500 pounds. More than enough for a canoe- even an O.T.
18 footer with sponsons. I had to build a beam out from the barn above the upper door. I attached a pulley towards the end of the beam and ran the cable with the hook through it. I also had to replace the short electric control cable with a longer one so I could get hold of the canoe and still back up into the barn. To get a canoe up there I attach a strap to one end ,then to the hook. With someone on the ground to guide the other end I lift the canoe to the door and slide it in onto an old carpet ---Done! To get them down just reverse the process.
I'll describe the other method after I post this. Kathy will follow with photos.
Oh, The cost was under $150.
Denis
 
Harken Hoist

Chuck,

I have had a Harken for about a year. It is relatively pricey, but I think I purchased some peace of mind in that I never worry about it or the canoe since it was installed. Please note although I am mechanically disinclined, it just seems like they live and breathe hoists, use quality materials, and time/hassle-wise make an excellent case for not reinventing the wheel (pulley).

Joe
 
Chuck,
To continue. The second method I have yet to install. We have the St Lawrence skiff on the ground floor. I plan to hang it from the floor joists of the second floor. I bought two crank winches- the kind that are found on boat trailers. They are American made and cost about $20 each including cable and hook which came with them.
I will attach them to the wall of the barn. Run the cable through rings attached to the joists. Hook the cable to slings that go under and around the boat and lift. The winches have ratchets so I can do a little bit on one end then repeat on the other. Since our barn has over 9 foot ceilings the boat will be well out of my way.
I hope this helps.
Denis
 
I have used mine for about six months now. I have a space problem so I lower the canoe to work on it. It works great. You have to make sure that you lay out the spacing correctly so the block and tackle end has enough room to raise the canoe to the height you want. I think the thing is fantastic! Tom
 
Denis,

Now that is the way to do it!! I remember Kathy's posting of your barn going up, looks like it has really worked out. I would think being in the UP you could just wait until November and slide your canoes on the snow into your loft. We have only been in our house a couple of years and I have been thinking about a loft door and beam- maybe when the weather breaks. I may be asking you more questions. Let me know how method 2 works out.

For now looks like the Harken Hoist or the LL Bean may be the way to go given the positive responses.

Thanks.

-Chuck
 
LL Beans hoist

In response to Canoez post, LL Bean no longer carries the hoist. Talked to customer service and she in turn talked to the store. No luck.

Thanks though.

-Chuck
 
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