Floor Bolts for Canvasing Upside-Down

[Scot T]

My new workshop is getting there and we are to the flooring stage. I'm relatively new to wood canvas canoe building/repairs but plan to canvas using the upside-down method I was taught. We used a couple truck bumpers but now with a new shop coming I am setting up properly (for me anyways). So I need a bit of advice on floor bolts.

Anyone have a recommendation on the minimum size of bolt to use, distance between the bolts (my fleet to be re-canvased are mainly 15' - 16' [one 12'6"] but in the future I hope to make a 17' or 18') and possible location (i.e. centered, off center, close to bench...)? The space is 20' x 30' with an average of about 3' +/- around three walls reserved for my beer cooler , bench, machines etc.

I know this is pretty much a personal preference so I'm not asking for a definitive answer, just some ideas that have worked for you and you are happy with. I’ve read Chris Merigold’s article and have studied the photos in the Seliga book, as well as others but I think it’s good to have as much experience as possible to draw from.

Any insights will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Denis M. Kallery]

Scot
Dave McDaniel has a really sweet set up in his shop. One I'm going to copy! I'll email him and ask if he will respond to this thread , maybe with some photos. Denis

 

[Blue Viking]

If you go to the members and /or builders sites, look for Bill Clements site and if you email him, he has a great setup....Get my supplies from him and have seen his method.....Especially his stand that the canoe is on...It allows you to continue all the way at the right angle and no interruptions. I have copied his stand and use it myself....He also uses a small stool on rollers and has a place to keep his equipment so there are no interruptions for stock either.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I am upside down.

Or from that camp anyway, so here's what I do.

I use my tallest sawhorses. My main pole barn area is 24' x 32'. I have gone sideways accross and endwise. I currently go length wise. I use lag eye screws 4" or so, about knee high and screw them into the 4 x 6 poles. Drilling a pilot first. I like to pull a few degrees downward. Too much of a downward angle I suspect puts too much pressure on the rails as they are pulled down onto the sawhorses. A little downward pressure is ok, preferred even. Once pulled tight you can use the clothes pin method like Joe Seliga used, or just climb under from one side to the other. I've done both. Clothes pins make it much easier to get from one side to the other as you work your way toward the stems. My most recent project is an 18'er and I use tough heavy weight dacron from Gil. It seems challenging but is actually simple AND a very satisfying step in the restoration process. No matter how you do it. BTW Gil canvasses a canoe or two every year at the quiet Water symposium using no stretcher at all other than his pliers.