First coat of paint

Blackwaterforge

Curious about Wooden Canoes
After waiting 6 weeks for the filler to dry I applied the first coat of paint (technically it was three coats as there was a coat on the canoe a coat on me and a coat on the ground)
There will be no photographic evidence of the first coat since it looks like it was put on with a pine top.
I am looking forward to actually paddling my canoe in a few weeks.
Thanks for all Y'alls help!
 
Rustoleum isn't as thick as the marine enamels and red generally doesn't cover as well as the darker colors so don't be surprised if it takes 4 or 5 coats to get the desired result.
 
I'm at the same stage with my canoe. Just put the first coat of Petit Easypoxy on last night. Is it normal to see the silica from the filler? I rubbed the surface until my arms felt numb. It seems since the silica is a component of the filler, that it would be on the surface when paint is applied.

Did you find this same issue? Any plans to resolve it, or is that just the way a wood canvas is?

Thanks
 
First coat looked retch-id! I now have 5 coats on with sanding between coats.
Final finish looks ok. It's not as smooth as a 2011 Ford Super Duty but is acceptable to float around the lake in.
I plan to buff after the paint cures.
 
Not quite finished still a work in progress.

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what procedure do you follow for wet sanding between paint coats?

Just guessing, I would try some mineral spirits and 600 grit.
 
600 grit and mineral spirits is a fast way to remove fresh paint. I wet sand with water and allow sufficient time for the surface to dry before tacking and recoating. Paint thinner or mineral spirits on relatively uncured but dry to the touch paint will remove the paint especially when aided by grit.
 
I can't figure out why anybody would wet-sand between coats of paint? To provide what? I scotchbrite or lightly sand between coats for decent adhesion of the new layer or if there is raised grain to take care of, but it doesn't make sense to me to polish the finish and then start all over, gooping it up again. If the final coat needs sanding or polishing, it gets done after all coats are on and have had sufficient time to cure (and/or shrink).There is enough work involved in building or rebuilding a boat that I just can't see the value in making more work where none may exist. If the results looked better, then I could see it, but they don't seem to.
 
I'm aware of the basic value in wet-sanding and actually worked for a couple of years hand-wet-sanding sculptures for an artist back when I was in college. Wet-sanding between paint coats is faster than dry sanding, but not faster than not sanding between coats at all and using something like a scotchbrite pad instead to prep for the next coat. When you then apply the next coat, the value of your we-sanding effort goes right down the drain. All you need to do between coats is to knock the gloss down and smooth out any glaring irregular spots. Get all of your paint on and actually let it cure to a more final state before you get out the wet-sanding paper if your intention is a smoother finish.

The green boat had no sanding (a quick rub-down with scotchbrite only) between coats, and no sanding after painting. I painted it out in my driveway, roll-and-tip with Brightside enamel. At the time of this photo, the paint job had been sitting outside, uncovered for three years and it was in getting cleaned up after sitting on a mooring for the previous summer.

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If I'm going to bother wet-sanding a paint job, I'll wait 7-10 days for all the paint to cure properly and finish shrinking. Then, and only then, will I start sanding it. When I'm done, I expect it to look like this. Again done with no wet-sanding between coats. All sanding was done after cure and final buffing was done by hand with a cotton cloth.

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I don't generally wet-sand boats, because frankly, it's a boat not a piano (or guitar) - but if you choose to do so, fine - but why not save it for a point in the process where it can actually do some good.
 
Wet sanding always takes down the high spots leaving low spot paint to fill in those areas, Do this after a few base coats are on. Always do it with a soft foam sanding block found at a good autobody store. This allows the sandpaper to hit only the high spots. Eventually you should be touching more paint with each coat. Otherwise, you are just scuffing up the low spots with the high spots.
 
I just use those green Scotchbrite pads from the hardware store. I've never had good luck with the brown ones as they seem too coarse. I used to absolutely dread painting. Then I threw away the brushes and started rolling and tipping (both paint and also varnish if the surface is big enough) and the results got drastically better. I also sprayed a couple of boats to try it, but all the masking and attempting to isolate something as big as a boat without also contaminating everything else in the building with sprayed paint was a royal pain.

The key to avoiding drips and other defects that need to be sanded-out is thickness control. The thinner and more evenly you can apply the paint, the better it will look. I roll it on with thin epoxy rollers and tip it out with disposable chip brushes (once I've tugged on the bristles a bit as they tend to drop hairs). I like a very soft brush for tipping and they fit the bill cheaply. I also use as few coats of paint as possible to avoid building up excess paint thickness, as it can tend to be brittle on items that are subjected to wide variations in temperature and weather. The green boat above, for example, has two coats of Brightside enamel, rolled and tipped with no primer used. That's all - and if it can look that good after sitting out year-round in Wisconsin for three years, then I can't see any reason to put more paint on and risk the concequences.

The other thing to know about paint, is that it's a mixture of some fairly inexpensive ingredients and what is often some very expensive pigment. That's where the money is in a can of paint, and the difference between a $12 can of paint and a $25 can of paint is most likely the amount and quality of the pigment in there.
 
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