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Wetweasel

WCHA #8341
It looks better than I had hoped, with most of the damage at one end. The keel came off in one piece but is definitely shot. Should the keel be replaced with softwood for weight or hardwood for durability ? The ends of the outwales look a little worn where the end grain was exposed but seem to be very close to original shape. I hate to replace them for 1/4". Would this be a place for epoxy ? One inwhale is missing the last 3" and the other is broken off also at 3". I am assuming I can scarf in a new peice, but should I use different lengths so the joints don't fall on the same ribs? The tip of the deck is gone but I have a nice chunk of cherry looking for a home. The top 6-8" of that stem is rotten , should that be replaced with ash or would any hardwood do ?There also I am assuming I can splice in a new end. There is only a small section of planking broken and all the ribs look to be OK. I know I threw out a lot of questions but any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Keel should be hardwood. Usually it is ash, but white oak will work as well.

Outwales - it seems when epoxy is used to build things up, in the end, that's exactly what it looks like. Can you live with them a little short? Otherwise, I'd probably scarf in a bit (not having seen them).

Inwales - I tend to scarf them in equal lengths. No matter how well you disguise the repair with grain matching and staining, they will be somewhat visible. I think they look better symmetrically replaced. You can always reinforce the scarf with a screw into the deck (or from the outwale if that is where it falls).

Stem - I usually use ash. White oak would be good, as it has more rot resistance. If you use white oak, consider using a glue other than epoxy.
 
Thanks Dan. I think I'll leave the outwales alone. Once the stemband is on I think it won't be that noticable. I'll be able to screw the inwale splices into the deck. In terms of glue , do you have any experience with Gorilla glue or is there something preferable?
 
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