Double End OT

[Craig Johnson]

Hi, I'm working on a 1946, 16' Double Ender and had a couple questions. I am not worried about historical restoration, just going to be a user but am curious about a couple things I found.
The stem has a cove in it I suppose to make the tacks and canvas be less proud making a better surface to mount the outside stem. Is this common?
The keel was attached with washer head screws shown in photo, look original to me but has anyone seen this?
Looks like a drawer mount under stern seat. Original? If so anyone have a photo of one?
Bow and stern seat have this extra slat of wood with a rabbit cut in it. It really looks original from stain and varnish shadows and accuracy of compound miter and fit. Original? what is it for?
Rails , decks and thwarts are mahogany. Seats are pine and support blocks are maple.
Thanks for any help
Craig

 

[smallboatshop]

Hi Craig,

You have nailed the reason for the cove or concavity in the stem. OT also did this in canoes with outside stems. The keel screws are original. Have seen them in 1930's and 1940's canoes and boats, but I don't when they started and ended using them.

Usually when OT made the AA version they used mahogany for the inwales, gunwales, decks and seats. Your build record had ditto marks next to "seats" so yours are probably mahogany. The supports under the seats are risers and are probably spruce. The rabbets in the end seats are for seat backs as you can see in the photo from the 1946 catalog.

The drawer fixture looks to be owner added.

Hope this helps.

Dan

 

[JClearwater]

Craig,

I am currently working on a 1943 Double End and intend to bring it to the Assembly next month. My boat came with the seat backs so if you want to reproduce a pair for your boat you can copy mine. I could take a couple pictures and measurements if you are not coming to Assembly.

Jim C.

 

[JMETZ]

I too would like some photos.....working on a '46 DE also. (cs grade) Does anyone know the canvas weight used for these?

 

[JClearwater]

In Dan's post above the original catalog cut says "number 6 canvas". These boats need 72" wide canvas not the standard 60" used on canoes. I got mine from Rollin. I don't recall what the weight was.
I'll try to take some pictures of my backrests and measurements in the next few days.

Jim C.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Thanks Dan.
That cleared up a couple things, especially the rabbit for the seat backs. After stripping turns out the seats are fir and risers maple, gunwales, thwarts, and decks are mahogany though. Odd that seats are different from build sheet but definitely original.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Stripped

finished stripping

 

[JClearwater]

Double End seat backs

Below are pictures, front & back, of the seatbacks from my Double End.

Measurements:
13.5” wide, 23.5” tall in center, 22.25” tall on the sides.
Five center slats are 1.25” wide and 0.25” thick.
Two side pieces are 1.25” wide and 0.50” thick.
Bottom cross piece is 2.25” wide and 0.25” thick
Top cross piece is 1.25” wide and 0.25” thick
Cross pieces are lap jointed into thicker side pieces. Held together with brass escutcheon pins or nails. Does not appear to be clench nailed. Looks to be spruce, same as a floor rack.

The bench seats in my 1943 boat (CS Grade) are spruce, tight grain, perfectly clear, beautiful piece of wood.

Good luck with your project. Mine is nearly done.

Jim C.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Thanks for the dimensions. Boat looks great, I like the paint. Was it painted before or was it a difficult strip job or was it just an aesthetic choice?

 

[JClearwater]

Craig,

My boat was painted with at least three coats of white over gray paint on the inside. I stripped and stripped and finally gave up. There was no evidence of there ever being varnish inside this boat. Usually people paint the interior because the original varnish wore out and it was easier to paint than varnish, however the varnish is still ok on the sides where it never got worn by peoples feet and can be found when you strip but not on this boat. I couldn't get the paint out of all the little dents, nail holes etc. so I painted it. I was able to clean up the rails where the seats attach and those are now varnished. The floor rack was missing when I got the boat so I made a new one and that is varnished which along with the seats, gunwales, decks and the sail rig there is enough bright work.

I'll post more pictures when the boat is completed next week.

Jim C.

 

[Treewater]

I'm chiming in to find this thread later. I'm also in the double ender club.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Jim.
Looking forward to the finished photos. I like the paint. You are right about enough natural wood. I like the contrast. What weight canvas did you use and to you know the final weight of the boat?
Craig

 

[JClearwater]

Craig,

I've finished my boat. I started a new thread in the Canoe Sailing section of the forum entitled, "Stephanie Lynn." http://forums.wcha.org/showthread.php?12205-Stephanie-Lynn-is-finished

I'll see everyone next week.

Jim

 

[Craig Johnson]

Canvased and filled and now the wait. Got the Gunwales steamed and bent and needed to store them out of the way till needed. I didn't want them to forget what I though them so here was my solution. Probably not necesarry but there out of the way.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Going Green.
Finally getting around to paint. 2 coats of primer, second one tinted a little. first coat of green. Am now working on outside stems and keel. Here is a quick and easy, one use only jig I knocked together to cut the splice, both pieces at once. Looks like it will be ready for spring.

 

[Andre Cloutier]

Very nice! that would look so good going around the point at Killbear this year....

 

[Brad Fisher]

Craig, that jig is a work of art.