Deck Construction Detail On "old Town"

[Brad Posey]

Looking for the detail on the convergence of the Stem, in wales and the deck plate.
There wasn't enough left on my 1926, for me to be sure of the structure. Can't find any pics with out the brass guard to be able to see the top detail.

This is not an old town, but I think it is the same, I Hope. Appreciate input
Thanks
Brad

 

[Benson Gray]

The information at http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?threads/10440/ may help.

Benson

 

[Brad Posey]

Thanks Benson

 

[Fitz]

The inwales on Old Towns are tapered and run past the tip of the deck. They mate over the top of the stem. Two small iron nails were driven through the sides of the inwales into the top of the stem. Simple as that.

 

[Craig Johnson]

Here are a couple photos. Like Fitz said, just a couple finish nails through inwales to stem. I use a couple stainless steel finish head screws instead. The wider stem tip from the splice gives a little more contact area and more room for screws.

 

[Brad Posey]

Those photos are exactly what i was after. I like the splice that you used, good surface to work with.

 

[Brad Posey]

Craig Johnson, I'm looking at your spliced inwales. Did you steam bend them to shape before attaching them?

 

[Craig Johnson]

Yes.

 

[Michael Graessle]

Speaking of bending the inwales, I soaked and steamed my inwales and bent them. However, I did not bend them far enough for the couture of my deck. Is it possible to re-soak and bend them again?

 

[Brad Posey]

Just did the same. I over bent, but wasn't enough. I'll recut the form, re-soak/steam and rebend. I think it best the let dry for longer than you would think, 4 or 5 days.

 

[Michael Graessle]

Thanks Brad, I will let it dry this week and recut my forms. I just hope the mahogany holds out. It is very hard to bend.