Canoe cart

Louis Michaud

LOVES Wooden Canoes
Take the wheels and the frame out of the 17" x 22" x 6" bag that stores under the front seat. Two wing nuts to secure the wheels. Pivot the canoe support brakets and add two wings nut. Voila! A compact wooden cart for a wooden canoe! I also think it looks good. :D

The only thing I would change now that I've tried it out a few times is the wheel base. At 27.5" it is a little tippy but only on the rough trails, 30"- 32" would have been a lot better.

Still, my back and shoulders are very happy.
 
Oops, pictures

Here are the pictures.
 

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My cart

It has been said that necessity is the mother of invention. Here is one of my carts. The PVC is glued together in the normal fashion. The two short pieces attached to the wheels were softened with a heat gun and flattened. A short length of flat steel is added vertically to add stiffness. The wheels were free from an old kids bike. Bigger wheels actually work better. I try to use just the front wheels from two bikes, that way you don't have to deal with the rear sproket and coaster brake. Because there is no axle running all the way across the ground clearance is real good. The down side to this cart is that it is not strong enough to carry a very heavy canoe. My 18' OT sponson sail canoe that weighs in at 100 lbs is too much for it. It's fine with all my other canoes. About $20 in materials.

Jim C.
 

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The ground clearance is about 8", those are 16" wheels and are the only thing I bought. The rest (oak, steel, brass, radiator hose, etc) is from the recycling bin. I have not had any problems with clearance on old loging roads. The cart was loaded with a 16 footer, packs, paddles, etc, so maybe 120 lbs and did not break. The weakest link would be where the stub axle is welded to a steel plate. I don't have the numbers for the weight needed to shear a 5/16" steel rod.

The labby is in fact a 4 month old pudelpointer.
 
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