Canoe #1build

[samb]

Back in December last year I asked for advice on altering a 16 ft form into a 14 ft one. The general advice was that it could be done but the results might not be too good. I did it anyway and am not far from finishing canoe #1.

This is the shortened form. The stations were set at 1 ft centres so removing two gave me the 14ft I wanted

Off the form it looks ok, but obviously I'll not know till it's on the water. I'm guessing the original form was designed around a prospector shape. It will be interesting to compare it with my 14 ft chestnut prospector ( which I don't think is very nice to paddle).

Canvas went on nicely and then filling and painting. Now just needs the gunnels shaping and varnishing, one more undercoat and then topcoat.

I'm pleased with how it's looking, but there are things I'll be changing for the next one:
The way I altered the form left me with an even number of ribs so I have two screws next to each other in the middle. This will be changed when I address the second problem which is quite a few of the metal strips are not tight to the form and those that are at the ends are nowhere near the correct angle. I'll be removing them all and re fitting them better.
I'm fairly sure the canoe is too deep. The channels for the inwales are not in line with the tumblehome on the form so when fixing that I can reduce the depth quite easily.

I'll probably be done in time for our WCHA UK meeting but the paint won't be hard enough to strap it on the car so I'll have to take another.

Sam

 

[patrick corry]

Your canoe is looking good. I am at roughly the same stage with a restoration and I'm curious about your comment about the two screws at the center. I have just bent on outwales and when looking at the screw placement I came to the same conclusion about the screws. I have a center thwart which falls between ribs. No matter where I choose to start installing screws (either fore or aft of center), I end up with screws at different places in relation to the stem at the ends. The only way to have screws the same at the ends is to place two at center. It's the first time I have encountered this in four previous restorations and one new build. It only took 43 clamps to bend the new outwales on!

Also, I am seeing filler or primer but no color coats I guess. Will you be removing the new outwales to continue painting, or simply paint to the outwales and leave the hidden portion unpainted? I think this may have been common with new builds from commercial canoe builders, or am I mistaken?


Well done on your form conversion.

 

[samb]

With an odd number of ribs, you can start the first screw in the middle and work towards the stems wit a screw in every other rib. With an even number, a screw every other rib will give an uneven result at each end. I couldn't work out why I was not getting things even until I sat and thought about it!
You have a goodly number of clamps there. I usually clamp the middle section then drill and screw before moving the clamps towards the stems
The outwales have been varnished on the back side. I'll do the shaping next (rounding over, trimming the ends, sanding and countersinking the screws) then varnish the rails, over lapping onto the hull to seal that joint. The under side of the rails will also get paint on the joint.

Sam