How would I mount this on an SUV

Ethan

Curious about Wooden Canoes
Hello everyone, need a bit of advice here, so I purchased this 16’ peterborough ontonabee around 2 years ago last summer I decided to work on it and instead of a full restoration, I simply sanded down and repainted the canvas and revarnished all the exposed wood(except for the gunwhales they look like they need some sanding) now my plan is to finish with the “renovations” this summer and hopefully take it out for a spin. I am now faced with a pretty big problem. The deck in the bow of the ship has a small hole in it that I can put steel hook in, however the stern doesn’t have that and I am hesitant to drill a hole through the deck. I was wondering if there is an alternative method o can use in the stern to fasten the canoe to the back of my car in the same manner as I don’t want to put it in danger on the road either, thank y’all for y’all patience…

P.s. would also appreciate any tips on alleviating the wailing from my boat on the road, listening to its voice for a few hours puts my mom in considerable annoyance
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1650.jpeg
    IMG_1650.jpeg
    730.9 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_1552.jpeg
    IMG_1552.jpeg
    379 KB · Views: 48
  • 53257325-9507-4936-87d1-2fedb592183c.png
    53257325-9507-4936-87d1-2fedb592183c.png
    475.3 KB · Views: 47
Also another quick question regarding the paint on the canvas, I started off with 3x filler then sand, left to cure, then I used industrial grade oil based paint, however no matter how many times I sand and repaint I can never get it to dry smooth, it always end up with these marks and uneven look, and will this affect the boat’s capabilities or is this purely cosmetic? Thank you
 
RE: the "marks and uneven look," pictures of these areas would make any assessment easier.

RE: "alleviating the wailing from my boat on the road," try turning it end for end, or even moving the boat an inch or two forward or backward, when it becomes an issue. Air flow usually doesn't need much of a physical change to alter resonances. Try different locations, see where the resonance stops, and stick with it. If you're using straps, try putting a twist in the straps... that can stop the wailing, too, depending on what is causing it.

RE: tying the end of the canoe to the back of the car: the rear rope/strap/whatever doesn't need to be tied to the end of the canoe. Try tying it to a thwart or seat. This rope/strap may be the actual source of the wailing...
 
Do you have a picture of your strapping tie down method?
I never tie the ends of the canoe, I have a Thule rack and use nrs straps and tie it down tight to each bar- same method I use for tying down crew boats on cars and trailers.
If you must tie the ends- you could slot the strap through the gap in the inwale or install painter rings. None of that is necessary if you strap it down with the right method.
 
Are you sure a tie down is necessary for the stern? As long as you have the centre of the boat secured well and perhaps the bow, that may be all that's needed.
Fwiw, here's my 16' on our SUV. (Factory roof rack with added foam padding )

20241024_115643.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tieing the ends - I usually put the ROPE on either the seat or thwart or pass it between the planking and inner rail, denending on where I want the ties.

If I am going any distance or speed I always put 4 attachments on each canoe, 2 cam lock straps over the "belly" to the racks, and a rope at each end, preferably trangulated to the car/truck. And if possible these ropes should pull in opposite directions to prevent the canoe from moving forward and rearward.

I use straps in the middle to spred the load on the paint and ropes at the ends to have high tension in the rope without putting too much stress on the canoe.

Note that roof racks are known to get ripped off a roof, that's why the 4 attachments.

I never tie the ends of the canoe, I have a Thule rack and use nrs straps and tie it down tight to each bar
 
I'm with Dan on this... well said, Dan!

I've had a crossbar pop off while driving... had the 2 canoes on top not been tied as he described, the semi behind me would have made a mess of them.

I know a guy who drives from Northern Illinois to Florida every year, without the canoe ends tied. He hasn't had an issue, but that's his choice... and it's his canoe, not mine.
 
For the ends I use para cord and go through the spaces at the open gunnels. I use bunny ears made of a strap for attaching to the front of the car. My bunny ears are fastened to the structure of the engine compartment. I leave them there. Some are sold that are simply a strap with a handle. the handle lays inside engine bay and is held when you shut the hood. Some GM vehicles don't have an obvious place to put a loop/bunny ear.
On some of my canoes I wrap para cord through the inwales just behind the decks. Several wraps and it makes a hand hold/thwart for lifting. That way no one is reefing on the deck when lifting.
 
Forgot to say - I use the Thule rack/bar system with the gunwale "stops" on the bar.
One thing nice about the commercial system/s is the quick push buttom on and off of the bars. (I assume Yakama also has this feature)
For multi day paddles, I remove the bars and store them in the truck.

Here are a few pics of the last canoe we brought home.

108_2125.JPG
108_2126.JPG
108_2127.JPG
 
Last edited:
Do you have a picture of your strapping tie down method?
I never tie the ends of the canoe, I have a Thule rack and use nrs straps and tie it down tight to each bar- same method I use for tying down crew boats on cars and trailers.
If you must tie the ends- you could slot the strap through the gap in the inwale or install painter rings. None of that is necessary if you strap it down with the right method.
Hello thank you for your reply, when I brought it back on the car, it was 2 cam straps for the boat in the center onto the mounted roofracks, a rope for the front that ties down into the hood of the car and one in the back, I just followed this video and the cover photo is essentailly what I did just wasnt able to tie it in the back
1745093075064.png
 
Are you sure a tie down is necessary for the stern? As long as you have the centre of the boat secured well and perhaps the bow, that may be all that's needed.
Fwiw, here's my 16' on our SUV. (Factory roof rack with added foam padding )

View attachment 58614
I see, thanks perhaps I will just leave the rear deck be and if necessary loop the rope a few times onto the stern seat
 
RE: the "marks and uneven look," pictures of these areas would make any assessment easier.

RE: "alleviating the wailing from my boat on the road," try turning it end for end, or even moving the boat an inch or two forward or backward, when it becomes an issue. Air flow usually doesn't need much of a physical change to alter resonances. Try different locations, see where the resonance stops, and stick with it. If you're using straps, try putting a twist in the straps... that can stop the wailing, too, depending on what is causing it.

RE: tying the end of the canoe to the back of the car: the rear rope/strap/whatever doesn't need to be tied to the end of the canoe. Try tying it to a thwart or seat. This rope/strap may be the actual source of the wailing...
Hello regarding the unevenness of the outter paint finish, I have to wait a bit to provide my own pictures due to the fact that I am out of town for school, and the canoe is wrapped in 2 layers of plastic sheets because i was not able to get indoor storage for it, I will have to wait until I start working on it again to provide detailed photos (in a week or 2) however the paintjob itself is comparable to the canoe in Mr Dan Lindberg's picture. It looks smooth at a distance but it is not like the mirror shine that many more competent and professional woodworkers can achieve
 
Throw the paint away and get a good quality marine paint and accompanying thinner, Epifanes, Interlux, Petit etc.
I had a paint distributor i wont name custom mix a certain colour, and it would not level out and left brush strokes as you describe, i contacted them and they said it needed to be thinned with Toluene, iirc. Ya no thanks, havent strayed from the top three since. You can easily achieve results far superior to those above with the right prep and products.
best of luck,
 
Ethan, one of my canoes does not have a convenient tie-down location at the rear so I made a fixed loop of 1" nylon webbing which I slip over the end of the canoe. Since the canoe (all canoes) get wider as you near the middle the fixed loop can only slide so far until it tightens up around the whole canoe end. I then attach my tie down rope to this loop down to my trailer hitch at the rear of the vehicle. The loop is tied with a ring bend (also known as a water knot- https://www.animatedknots.com/water-knot for webbing, or if using rope, a fisherman's knot for security.
 
Back
Top