Where to start? Restoring a 9' Penn Yan canvas-covered dinghy in the UK

Yes, defiantly get some frearson bits. if you haven't already. I've done a few Penn Yans over the years. Their pretty boats....but...they have SO many nuts, bolts and screws. I have to label the containers just so I remember to put them back correctly. I usually put #8 canvas on them. Their not too bad to canvas. I probably have a lot of photos if it helps. Dave
 

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Their pretty boats....but...they have SO many nuts, bolts and screws. I have to label the containers just so I remember to put them back correctly.
I think I may still have an assortment of hardware, nuts and bolts, pieces of mahogany from a PY tender I worked on (I had to give this some thought...oh baby) 52 years ago. I recall giving some of the accumulated wealth away about 10 years ago, but if someone is looking for odd bits, I'd be willing to dig around. I have a pretty good idea where I put those things, even now. Nothing too exciting as I recall...screws and bolts and possibly some painter rings I was hoping to sell to Andre for Chestnut decks.
 
If you have any Whitworth tools please DM me. Recently picked up a couple dozen British Seagull motors.
 
Ted, what a thorough summary. I usually do mine on a yellow legal pad that sits on my shop bench until the job is done. They often sit for a very long time gradually fading away in layers of shop dust and gun oil. Messy.
The screws you will encounter in a Penn Yan are Frearson screws. Philips tend to strip in wood where the Frearsons are more robust. They may be our turnabout is fair play for Whitworth, my bane from my days as a machinist. Setting a lathe for that thread still gives me nightmares. Needless to say, my machinists days were brief.
Thank you MGC, as they say every day is a school day and I had never heard of a Frearson screw or screwdriver, now I have, so I'll try and get hold of the right-sized bit so that I don't strip the heads.
 
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Todd, a "couple dozen"? How did that happen?
A guy up in Falls Church outside of DC had been collecting them for years meaning to restore them all. He put them in dry storage about 1995 and never got around to it. One has a stuck cylinder, the rest all have compression. One is new in the original shipping crate. Plenty of extra parts.
 
I should probably start a new post about canoe outboards, will look to what is already posted. These are 1.5-5 HP and I will get the up and running if folks want a cheap one for a canoe. MTF
 
These older motors can be a bit of a commitment. When I got my boat (55 Thompson) going, I decided a period correct motor was essential so after fooling around with an early 60's Evinrude (POS) I got a small 1956 Sea King running. The SeaKing is a good little motor, although it has a tendency to shed parts. Tools to do on the spot repairs are necessary to increase the odds of a return to the boat trailer. I also have a Neptune and several brackets for canoes. A 20 foot White enjoys a bit of a boost,.
At present I no longer use either of these. My tree hugger tendencies were unable to ignore the ugly sheen of oil/gas mix from the exhaust. I honestly felt really badly about using the boat in any reasonably clean water as a result. I upgraded to a small modern Mercury and enjoy it's cleanliness. It also stays in one piece when it used and starts easily with one or two pulls. The Merc is too much motor for a canoe, so it's back to pole and paddle, not a bad thing. It's much more peaceful.
 
Yes, defiantly get some frearson bits. if you haven't already. I've done a few Penn Yans over the years. Their pretty boats....but...they have SO many nuts, bolts and screws. I have to label the containers just so I remember to put them back correctly. I usually put #8 canvas on them. Their not too bad to canvas. I probably have a lot of photos if it helps. Dave
David - thanks - your boat(s) look very like mine in construction - the blue one is a bit longer, but seems to be the same construction. I have been watching YouTube for hints and tips on recanvassing, but was wondering about the transom. I see you have stretched a piece across and tacked. Did you use any sealant / sealing tape or bedding compound on the 'seam' at the Transom? How did you stretch the canvas round, and was it easy enough to get a wide enough bolt of canvas to do the whole boat in one? Sorry for all thee questions.. I'm still trying to find a Frearson screwdriver in the UK, I think I'll need to start phoning around..
 
I did the transom first. I did glue the canvas on the transom. though I don't always. Weldwood contact cement. Wrapped around an inch or so to the hull. I stretched the canvas in the air , right side up. Temporary tacks to hold it tight. While I tucked it under itself 1/2 inch on the edge of transom with Dolfinite bedding compound. Or any good bedding compound. With a lot of brass tacks. I'm sure there's a few posts here about canvasing a square stern. Yes one big piece of canvas. I get mine from https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/
 
I did the transom first. I did glue the canvas on the transom. though I don't always. Weldwood contact cement. Wrapped around an inch or so to the hull. I stretched the canvas in the air , right side up. Temporary tacks to hold it tight. While I tucked it under itself 1/2 inch on the edge of transom with Dolfinite bedding compound. Or any good bedding compound. With a lot of brass tacks. I'm sure there's a few posts here about canvasing a square stern. Yes one big piece of canvas. I get mine from https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/
Just got off the phone to a supplier who thinks - somewhere - he has some Frearson bits. They are on his computer, but he has no idea where they might be in the stock room! He can't recall being asked for one for many years... Thanks for the answers to my questions, I'm starting to get an idea of how to do this :)
 
Order from US. Shipping can't be to bad. I ordered a book last week from Scotland. Took about 6 days. Was $17 shipping though :confused: not to bad.
 
Look to eBay for your Frearson screwdriver(s). Get a good vintage one if you can. The modern bit inserts, despite claiming Frearson tips, are no good.
 
I also bought some modern Frearson driver bits from a reputable tool company and they have been outstanding. I've been using them for years with no troubles at all. Perhaps like everything else, there are simply variations in quality depending on the care that went into manufacture. I tried searching through my records, but I cannot find my source for these bits.
 
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