varnish/oil outer gunnels prior to installation?

[Blue Charm]

I'm nearly done a lengthy restoration project, now ready to install a new set of outer gunnels. My question is, should I oil and/or varnish them prior to installing, or will that make bending them onto the boat more difficult? I wasn't planning on pre-bending them over a form beforehand as the angles aren't very sharp at the stem and stern of the canoe. I used linseed oil, then shellac, then varnish on the rest of the boat. I need to plane the edges off the gunnels as well but I suppose that could also be done beforehand.

Any advice/experience greatly appreciated!

 

[Paul Miller]

Hi,

I notice you've had no reply and sometimes it's because we have different ideas on how to get it done and we don't like to be corrected if it's different than some others point of view.

But I have done it both ways and now fit the gunnels to the canoe before I canvas, route, plane, shave, sand or whatever to how you want them. I remove and then varnish.

I usually put another finish coat after installed on the painted canoe.

Good luck,

Paul

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Just saw this. I install the outwales before canvas and use steel screws. I save the bronze screws for the final install. Mostly I have to steam bend the rails on. Once they set a week or so I take them off and do the finish work. I usually just varnish. I use a light setting on my cordless drill's clutch or I use a regular screw driver. I think any way you do it will be ok, but you might find yourself doing one last coat of varnish once it's all installed.

 

[Gary Willoughby]

I agree with Dave only I don't use steel screws I save them for when I have to pull something in than remove them and use brass. I always use bee's wax on my screws.


Paul I agree with you about upsetting someone after building boats for forty years I learned a few ways to do it better and if you post it here I have some reply's like " it works for me or I have never trouble doing it my way". It's a lot easer to not to post several of my friends won't post because of this.

 

[MGC]

I agree with Dave only I don't use steel screws I save them for when I have to pull something in than remove them and use brass. I always use bee's wax on my screws.


Paul I agree with you about upsetting someone after building boats for forty years I learned a few ways to do it better and if you post it here I have some reply's like " it works for me or I have never trouble doing it my way". It's a lot easer to not to post several of my friends won't post because of this.

Although there are some core methods, we all have our own ways of doing things. Even so, most boats ending up looking pretty good....some ways may be better than others though. I know a few folks that don't varnish the back side of their rails. From my experience they tend to rot from behind if the boat is used quite a bit or if it's stored outside .... if you don't varnish the backs.
I use soap on my screws (beeswax when I tie flies....) lot's of different ways...all for the purpose of keeping these old beauties on the water.
Point being, since there are alternative facts there shouldn't be any offense taken when someone offers up a different approach. I have learned quite a bit on this site and changed my approach to things based upon that...
I (and most likely others) really appreciate it when you, Paul and other experienced folks share your methods.....

 

[Gary Willoughby]

MGC about soap, I used soar for years the little bars like you get in motels , Also I used paraffin wax all work good why do I now use bees wax don't remember ( old age catching up with me ) Several ways to do everything people need to except them.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I mill, soak, steam, and bend outwales on the canoe after all repairs are made and the interior is stripped.
I leave the outwales on the canoe because they are much easier to sand and varnish when they are attached.
Once the interior and gunwales are sanded and varnished, I sand them one more time and take them off for canvas, fill and paint. Once the hull is painted, I reattach the outwales and give it one more coat of varnish.

 

[Nachako]

Just my 2cents
I install my gunwales bare and freshly sanded. Then apply a thin coat of west system epoxy to them before varnishing them.
I'm not a gunnel basher but they take a bit of a beating loading and unloading. This preserves them.

 

[Mkrzyzan]

Lots of good advice so far. My method is pretty similar and has always worked well. All milling and profiling gets done before the first fitment. Leave the length long if possible to aid in the initial dry fit, then trim in place. First dry fit uses clamps and steel screws with fender washers, working from the middle outward. Steaming or soaking usually isn't necessary, but can be beneficial for those tortured bends.

Once in place, then I usually pull one screw at a time, countersink the hole, and drive a steel screw in. With everything fitted and fastened properly, then they can come off and get finished. After final install with brass or bronze screws + beeswax or slickseam, they'll typically get one more coat of varnish in place.