Show me your Sailing canoe pictures!

@Blott That lug rig on the Pal in your picture- is that a particular sail design from a modern boat? Or custom made? I have been looking through the Sailrite sail kits and looking at size and shape of some existing sail designs. The Shellback Dinghy seems to fit what I would like. That steep angle of the yard I think would look good on my canoe, your sail design seems to have the same look. Maybe 56 square feet is a bit large? https://www.sailrite.com/Shellback-Dinghy-Lug-Main-Sail-Kit

@Todd Bradshaw I ordered my Sail Maker's Apprentice book to help give me some background info on the nitty gritty of cutting and sewing. It does not appear that the old canvas lanteen I picked up has much more than a straight cut to it. What is the tape along the luff and foot (only on one side) called? I imagine I need a cotton based material to match the stretch of my cotton fabric.
 

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They can simply be called luff and foot tapes. Since your sail shows a different cloth weave than that of the sail itself, it was probably a pre-made tape with the roping already machine sewn to it, which they just sewed over the edges of the sail. Traditionally, the luff tapes would have been done with the same cloth used for the sail. In some cases, it would even be done with a tabling, instead of just a cut strip. To make a tabling, the sail is paneled out on the floor a few inches larger than the lofted pattern. The sail is then cut out to match the pattern and the edges are bound with strips cut from the excess, left outside of the pattern. That way the weave directions (and stretch characteristics) of the tabling strips perfectly match those of the sail panel that they are binding. On cotton sails with either tablings or just strips cut to make edge tapes the cut edges all need to be hemmed as well. That's pretty much the most tedious part of cotton sailmaking - no raw cut edges allowed.
 
If you have the basic dimensions for a lugsail, including the lengths of its edges, at least one diagonal measurement (tack to peak or clew to throat) and the calculated square footage, it is pretty easy to convert the measurements to a different size with little more than a calculator. I'll attach a few sailplans that you can play with. Say for example that I want to increase the size of a sail a bit. Maybe I will increase all the linear dimensions on the plan to 110% of what is shown. The important thing to note though, is that we're dealing with a two-dimensional plan and so we will multiply the square footage measurement by 110% twice. The same goes for instances where we want to reduce the sail size. If we multiply the plan's linear dimensions by 90%. We then multiply the square footage amount shown by 90% twice.

I'm sure that there are plenty of people who are much better at math than I am, and who can figure this stuff out faster, but if I want to convert a plan from something like 60 sq. ft. down to 50 sq. ft. all it takes is a few minutes of experimentation with the calculator to figure out the exact fractional amount that will do the job.

!SARGENT-1.jpg
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34sf-lug-plan.jpg
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!SARGENT-1.jpg Sailplan-1.jpg 34sf-lug-plan.jpg !42SFECL.jpg
 
What thickness ply do you use for those?

Look at those battons ! Is that a particular sail design or is it specific to that boat?
 
The sail plan is as given in Iain Oughtred's plans for Wee Rob, a 35 sf balanced lug. It was very nicely made in 4 oz Egyptian Cream dacron by Douglas Fowler.
Planking for all 3 canoes shown are 4mm okoume ply.
 
I don't know if I have the pictures on this computer, I use a MacGregor lug main on my 15'x35" cedar canoe. Sailrite makes a kit. I've used a variety of rigs on kayaks and canoes including 45' and 55' lateens and a 36' BSD Classic jib-headed sail.
 
1977 Old Town Tripper with 75 square foot OT sailing rig. I’ve upgraded the rudder from the mahogany rope & pulley to a tilt up aluminum rudder& tiller from an Old Town Wahoo sailing canoe.

An air bladder is under 4mm marine plywood decks that ‘float’ to snug up under the gunnels when inflated. The rearmost deck has a trolling motor battery box for a Shakespeare Wonder-trolling motor that goes on an Old Town side mount clamped on behind the Adirondack style seat that sits on the bottom rear of the canoe.

Beautiful sailer and takes down easily to return to family canoe!

Jon
 

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