Shear Planking

Dave Aukes

Curious about Wooden Canoes
69 years ago the Peterborough craftsmen ended up short with the planking at the shear line so they tacked narrow peace's of plank material to the raise the shear line. These little strips didn't make it through the fiber glass cloth removal.
I am now at the point in the rebuild that I need to deal with this issue. What is the best way to deal with this shortage.
 

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Agreed - just add pieces back to match those that were removed when removing the glass. Pretty straightforward. Why make it more difficult?
 
Dave, you may worry that those thin strips may not be strong enough, but with the ribs, canvas, and gunwales there will be plenty of nearby support.
 
Yeah, this 18 ft square stern canoe has 65 ribs spaced 3/4 to 7/8 inches apart. So it seems like these narrow strips of plank will be taking a lot of tacks during canvasing. Red cedar these days seems to be prone to cracking, predrilling all holes seems to prevent most cracking. But predrilling through canvas during stretching would be a real pain.
The strips that came off were all splintered from tacks so with that and the fiberglass cloth removal, everything mostly turned to toothpicks.
I think a wider plank would hold up to all those tacks better - so I'm trying to come to terms with that.
 
Use 1" wide plank to finish the planking. Use canoe tacks only if they can be clinched below the inside rail. Predrill the planking and the rib. If there is not room enough to use a canoe tack, apply a spot of tightbond yellow glue to the rib and nail into the rib with a small steel nail. Let the glue dry, remove the nail, trim all the planking so its 1/4" below the top of the inside rail.... Viola, your done!
 
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