Serial number question?
- Thread starter billyoung
- Start date
The Old Town with serial number 130598 is an 18 foot long, CS (Common Sense or middle) grade, HW (heavy water) model with open spruce gunwales, and a keel. It was built between August and December, 1940. The original exterior paint was dark green. It shipped on April 21st, 1941 to Albany, New York. A scan showing this build record can be found by following the link at the attached thumbnail image below.
This scan and several hundred thousand more were created with substantial grants from the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association (WCHA) and others. A description of the project to preserve these records is available at http://www.wcha.org/ot_records/ if you want more details. I hope that you will join or renew your membership to the WCHA so that services like this can continue. See http://www.wcha.org/about-the-wcha/ to learn more about the WCHA and http://store.wcha.org/WCHA-New-Membership.html to join.
It is also possible that you could have another number or manufacturer if this description doesn't match your canoe. Feel free to reply here if you have any other questions,
Benson
This scan and several hundred thousand more were created with substantial grants from the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association (WCHA) and others. A description of the project to preserve these records is available at http://www.wcha.org/ot_records/ if you want more details. I hope that you will join or renew your membership to the WCHA so that services like this can continue. See http://www.wcha.org/about-the-wcha/ to learn more about the WCHA and http://store.wcha.org/WCHA-New-Membership.html to join.
It is also possible that you could have another number or manufacturer if this description doesn't match your canoe. Feel free to reply here if you have any other questions,
Benson
Attachments
Thank You Benson very much. With any luck within a few days My Wife and I will be the proud new owners of this boat. More information to follow as we learn it.
Sincerely , Bill Young
An obvious question when buying an old canoe is how much is it worth? The information at http://forums.wcha.org/showthread.php?57 may help you decide. The condition is usually the biggest factor so see if the canvas leaks badly or if there are any major structural issues from breakage or rot. Everything is replaceable but the cost in time and money can be significant, especially if it has been fiberglassed. Good luck,
Benson
Benson
Greg Nolan
enthusiast
The problem with asking the person selling a canoe questions is that they often know little or nothing about their canoe, and further, they may not tell you what they do know. Often, you will get a pretty unhelpful answer -- “Yeah, it looks in pretty good shape -- it’s been in the barn for the last 13 years, and it paddled real nice the last time we used it.” They may know the maker of the canoe, or they may be mistaken about it -- their grandfather bought the canoe 40 years ago, their father used it for fishing for years, its been in the barn a long time, the label is missing, and any papers that came with the canoe have been lost for generations.
So, as when buying anything used, the basic rule is caveat emptor -- Let The Buyer Beware!
First, decide before hand what really matters -- do you care if the canoe advertised as a Kennebec turns out to be an Old Town or a UFO? What level of repair/restoration are you willing to undertake, if any? How big a canoe do you want (its surprising how often people do not actually know how long their canoe is)? Don’t settle -- don’t buy a 17’ canoe if what you really want and need is a 15’ canoe -- you will regret for as long as you have the canoe or until you buy the 15’ canoe you really wanted.
It’s easy to get caught into the excitement of buying a canoe -- picturing yourself paddling on the water rather than paying attention to the task at hand-- looking closely and skeptically at what is before your eyes.
So, assuming the canoe is one that will fit your purpose, you need to check out the canoe slowly and closely. You need to ask the questions of yourself, and answer them yourself.
Take a long careful look at the hull, both right-side-up and upside down. Is fair? Is it basically smooth, without bulges where there ought to be none? Is it twisted -- are the stems in line when looking down the hull? Is it covered in canvas or something else? Is the covering useable, repairable, or does in need replacing?.
Check decks, coamings, gunwales, seats, thwarts -- are they tight or loose fitting; are there cracks or other damage, and how is the seat caning? Do the decks and gunwale ends show rot (a common problem arising from poor storage)?
Look closely at the ribs, planking, and fastening. Check each rib individually, one end to the other, for cracks, rodent damage, split or rotted rib tips, and look carefully at the adjacent planking as you check each rib. Look at the ends of the tacks -- does the wood around them have a white bloom, indicating that salt water usage has weakened the tacks? Cracks in ribs are often hidden by old, discolored varnish and dirt -- if you see a couple of cracked ribs, assume that there are a couple more.
How is the wood finish in the canoe’s interior? If the varnish is chipped or warn, will it need to be stripped and re-varnished, or will a light sanding and a new coat of varnish be enough?
Look at the metal. What metal are the seat-hanging and other bolts made of? Are they loose, are they corroded, are they missing? Are the bang plates present; what metal are they made of; are they cracked or broken?
Certainly ask the seller about the canoe -- you may find out some interesting history, and the seller may be knowledgeable and candid. Just don’t count on it. With apologies to the Marx brothers -- “Who you gonna believe, [the seller] or your own eyes?”
Greg
Thank You Greg Nolan , I think paying for a professional survey is in order after reading your post. I am familiar with Mahogany boats but not the coverings on these canoes and I would rather pay a couple hundred down the drain than $1,500.00 for a canoe that won't float without major surgery.
Greg Nolan
enthusiast
Check your private messages.
MGC
Scrapmaker
Hi Billy,
No need to pay anyone to assess the boat. There is an active local WCHA community here in Rochester area. I am sure there are members that would help you out without compensation, myself included.
Here is the contact information for the chapter:
Western NY – Chapter 1
Pete Shea
585-257-5013
Email: pshea1@rochester.rr.com
I am on my way to New Hampshire for a couple days but I'd be willing to look it over after I return later this week. I am sending you a PM with my cell number in case you want to take me up on that.
Mike
No need to pay anyone to assess the boat. There is an active local WCHA community here in Rochester area. I am sure there are members that would help you out without compensation, myself included.
Here is the contact information for the chapter:
Western NY – Chapter 1
Pete Shea
585-257-5013
Email: pshea1@rochester.rr.com
I am on my way to New Hampshire for a couple days but I'd be willing to look it over after I return later this week. I am sending you a PM with my cell number in case you want to take me up on that.
Mike
