Scraping Dried Glue from Inner Hull

[RoadRunner]

Hey All -

Been quite some time since I posted - took a fall from the garage attic and dislocated my right shoulder, which put me out of commission for a couple months. Good news is, I managed to miss the canoe when I fell (only by about 3 inches) so clearly I have my priorities straight. Anyway, I've recovered so it's back to work!

I'm at the point where I need to remove all the dried wood glue from the inner hull. Ive been advised to use a paint scraper (rounded the corners of the blade) but I'm finding that it's removing more wood than glue. Take a look at the pics, which show the typical hardened glue pattern on the inner surface. How would you suggest I remove? I'm inclined to use an orbital sander on the flat areas, and wrap sanding paper around an old 2 liter bottle, and forego the paint scraper all together. Thoughts?

 

[Jim Dodd]

One thing I know I did on my first build, was used to much glue. It's a bugger on the outside, and a Nightmare on the inside !

I've used a ROS , with aggressive paper, as I can find. Usually 40 grit. It takes more paper, more time. Do it outside if at all possible, and WEAR a double filter mask. 3M makes a good one for under $30. Your lungs will thank you !!!

Glad you have recovered from the fall, and are back ! I've been there, and done that !

Jim

 

[Greg Nolan]

I've never built a stripper, but like almost anyone who has glued up any wood, I've had to deal with glue squeeze-out. I'm assuming, from the pics, that the glue is Titebond II, or something similar.

In many situations, I have found that careful use of a very sharp chisel to cut away dried squeeze-out is useful, and perhaps all that is needed, Some glues, including Titebond, can gum up sandpaper pretty fast. 40 grit will not gum up very fast, but it will remove a lot more wood than you want with even a small slip of your machine. A finer grit is less likely to cause accidental damage to the wood, but can warm the glue from friction and make it a bit gooey, aggravating the gumming-up problem. No matter what grit sandpaper you use, cutting away the dried squeeze out helps to minimize the need for sanding, and 80 or 100 grit will work fine, leaving the wood in better shape. Sometimes a chisel can get all of the glue, obviating the need for sanding, but even if the chisel doesn't get all the glue, it makes sanding easier. Using a chisel would often be easier on the outside of the hull than on the inside.



Greg

 

[Jim Dodd]

Greg is right ! Remove the glue with a chisel, or scraper, if you can.
I have a drawer full of various scrapers, that I rarely use anymore. Mostly because I've learned to be frugal with my glue.

On the outside, I have a couple of straight edged Carbide scrapers, that work fine.
For the inside I use one of those multi blade scrapers, that have about six different blades and shapes. They are attached with a single screw, and can easily be changed. I looked at one, that has "All Trade" on the handle. I'm sure it's made in China.
Sharp, is the key with any scraper !

Good luck

Jim

 

[RoadRunner]

Hey Jim and Greg -

Good to hear from you guys, and thanks for the insights. I like the chisel idea, as it will allow me more control on those tougher spots.

Sounds like using a random orbital is ok in some areas, but there is risk of removing too much wood around those spots with heavier glue deposits.

Thanks again, guys. Don't know how the heck I would have ever been able get this far without this forum.

 

[Dan Lindberg]

I wouldn't start sanding until I got all the glue off. You will sand the softer wood and leave the harder glue.
As already said, use scrapers and keep them sharp.

And for the next canoe, 1 medium bottle of glue should be enough to do a canoe. I use the filled stuff so it doesn't run all over.

Dan

 

[RoadRunner]

Thanks Dan - quick question: what do you mean by "filled stuff"?

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Here the box stores carry several types of yellow wood glue, and one version is filled with very fine wood flour (I assume) to make it resistant to running. The stuff is a bit thicker and kind-of gray colored.

Dan

 

[Jim Dodd]

Here the box stores carry several types of yellow wood glue, and one version is filled with very fine wood flour (I assume) to make it resistant to running. The stuff is a bit thicker and kind-of gray colored.

Dan

Love thick glue ! I've had good luck with Elmer's Max.

Jim

 

[Mark Heinrich]

As with any hand work - the right tool can be magic. I've been watching a lot of Nick Shade's videos and this one is gold. He isn't selling anything. I can't count how many hours I would have saved.