Hi guys..I tried my hand at steam bending some cedar ribs as a prelude to a repair job and have a bunch of questions.
1. How can you tell the differences between red and white cedar? I am using cedar siding. The grain runout is true. I think I need white cedar but may have used red.
2. On a 16' OT Yankee the ribs are tapered. How long do I leave the ribs while bending around the hull? If I leave the ribs long I can bend more easily but how would I get the taper and width of the rib right?
3. I did a test steam (20 min of good hot and wet steam) and bent the piece around the canoe. I backed it up in the keel area and tried to form to the hull. It resisted a lot to the bending force and snapped as I was about 2 inches from reaching the gunwale. Is there a special trick or should I just be more quick?
4. Is white cedar easier to steam bend? My documentation states that the '43 Yankee used white cedar. I'm wondering if I am just using the wrong wood.
Thanks a bunch!
Dave Peterson
1. How can you tell the differences between red and white cedar? I am using cedar siding. The grain runout is true. I think I need white cedar but may have used red.
2. On a 16' OT Yankee the ribs are tapered. How long do I leave the ribs while bending around the hull? If I leave the ribs long I can bend more easily but how would I get the taper and width of the rib right?
3. I did a test steam (20 min of good hot and wet steam) and bent the piece around the canoe. I backed it up in the keel area and tried to form to the hull. It resisted a lot to the bending force and snapped as I was about 2 inches from reaching the gunwale. Is there a special trick or should I just be more quick?
4. Is white cedar easier to steam bend? My documentation states that the '43 Yankee used white cedar. I'm wondering if I am just using the wrong wood.
Thanks a bunch!
Dave Peterson