I love this, great imagination and determination.
Any chance you have drawings/sketches you could post in case others might want to try this?
Dan
Additional info, pictures, and sketches of the home-made canoe lift.
1. The canoe lift cart consists of three sub- assemblies (a) base -28”W 46”L (b) posts – 22”W 72”H (c) lift case - 23.5”W 30”H / forks – 42”L
2. Dual-load-path pulley system: two identical sets providing redundancy and un-skewed lifting action. Each pulley set consists of two single blocks and two double blocks.
3. The lift has four hinges that would allow the lift to be folded flat on the base or unfolded for use in a minute. The folded cart would be 8” x28”x80”. My cart does not currently fold flat because some cross pieces get in the way.
4. All parts and material are available from Lowes or Home Depot: 1x4, 2x2, and 2x4, cheap pulleys, bolts/nut, screws, and ropes. It probably costs less $100 to make one.
5. The heaviest canoe the lift has handled was OTCA 18. I once put an Old Town Guide 20 on it – it stood, but I did not try to lift it.
6. It can lift a canoe to a height of 90” (6’ post height + 18” of lift case extension). The lift can be made to lift higher if needed, by increasing the height of the posts or the lift case or both.
7. Putting a canoe from the lift to shoulders is easier than from ground to shoulder (especially for those older than 55).
8. It has never failed on me for the last 15 years. With the lift, hanging or lowering a canoe becomes a one-person operation. Works quite well for those who own multiple canoes.
9. It occupies less space in the garage than one thinks it would: the base can slide under a car and the forks can be positioned above the car hood.
10. If someone wants to make one, there are areas where he can improve: adding a winch, reducing friction between sliding wood surfaces (how?), modifying the fork brace so that the lift can directly put a canoe on the car rack or lift the canoe off the car.
Jen