OT Double Ender - Mounting rowlocks

[Brad Fisher]

I need some advice on mounting new Shaw & Tenney rowlocks on my 1924 Old Town Double Ender restoration. The gunwale isn't perfectly flat, so the the swivels won't mount perfectly flush. Does it matter? That is, with enough bedding compound, will the screws hold under the stress of rowing? If not, what's the best way to fix it?

Thanks!

 

[Benson Gray]

will the screws hold under the stress of rowing?

I suspect that the screws will hold. Another option is to simply sand the area flat under the base if it really bothers you. Nice restoration,

Benson

 

[Todd Bradshaw]

Most of the open gunwale boats that I have seen used some sort of wooden oar lock pads between the gunwales and the oar lock bases. It also allows for adjustment for uneven gunwales, or non-level gunwales if needed, while providing a flat and level surface for the oar lock bases

to mount to.

 

[1905Gerrish]

Brad,
How were they originally mounted?
I like Todd's setup. I would certainly like to have them square myself so there would not be uneven stress on the inner and outer gunwales at different parts of the stroke. Leather strip under half of the base to square them up if you don't like Todd's suggestion?
Zack

 

[Craig Johnson]

Brad, here is a photo of the original mounts on my double ender. Notice the counter sinks are larger on the outwales than the inwale. The inwale has bolts clear through which provides most of the strength and then the outwales has larger screws, maybe 10s or 12s, hence the different counter sinks. Close inspection of mine shows a similar but much smaller gap under the outside edge of the mount and I have had no problem. On yours I think I would cut a small wedge of ash to fit under the mount to fill the gap and then secure as normal.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Like Craig, I fill in the gaps between the ribs that are involved with the row locks. I epoxy blocks of wood to the inwales that fit tight between the ribs.
I think it makes that area a little stronger.
Also sometimes gives you something to screw into.

 

[Brad Fisher]

Thanks for the great ideas. I'm going to give Craig's a try - a simple way to keep things strong and original. I'll let you know how it comes out.

 

[Brad Fisher]

Here's how it worked out, using Craig's suggestion to cut a small wedge of ash to fill the gap. I had some left over from making the original outwales. I made a simple shield template so I could trim the wedges in place without worrying about cutting up my freshly varnished outwales. Thanks again all. That was the last hurdle and my double ender is now a real, floating, rowable boat!.

 

[JClearwater]

Brad,
The oarlocks on my DE are mounted on blocks in like manner to Craig and Todd's, but mine are a different style, not the standard Old Town ones like you have. Old Town must have switched styles or suppliers at some point. I have no reason to believe they are not original to the boat. I don't have a photo handy but it looks like you have the problem solved. Great looking boat. Well done.

 

[Brad Fisher]

Thanks! One of the reasons I used Craig's suggestion is that I've seen his boat ... it's pretty much a twin sister to mine.