Need advice on canvas and planks

Treewater

Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
This is a Maine UFO still unidentied but none the less, a good canoe. The planking is all 2" to 3" wide. Both ribs and planks are of a grade just slightly below "select clear." There are tiny knots and run out grain through out the canoe. Workmanship was not Morris or Old Town standards. Still, I like the canoe as it is 15 ft, 60 lbs, and stable. But as the pictures show, each plank shows its edge, some of the deformed but not broken ribs show by their indent on the hull. The second problem; The fill went on well. It was Blanchard's formula and I was happy with the result. however, after I painted these dimples began to show up. Not just on the ends, but as you see, in the center.
I will live with the result and use the canoe as it turns out but (I can't be alone) as I refurbish each canoe my standards go up and I want to avoid these mistakes in the future. for the rib problem, relace seems the only option. For the planking, and it was all good, thoroughly soaking and putting an extra tack on each edge and each rib...500 tacks...would that have helped?
For the canvas, I have to presume stretching tighter would have avoided this or is there something else going on?
Oh yes, it was originally red and I chose blue but that cannot be the problem.
:)
 

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I'll bite. It looks to me like 1) a canvas stretching issue 2) the hull wasn't faired smooth, could be needing a few more tacks too, but usually alot of effort in fairing the planking pays off in a smooth canoe. 3) ribs also need to lay flat and be smoothed prior to planking. A long sanding board should be used to fair the ribs prior to planking. Getting a rib to lay flat can be tricky at times. Once its in there and lumpy its too late except as a teaching moment.
 
Dave pretty much summed up the problems.
The canvas problem can be helped by putting water inside the canoe where the puckers are; turn it upside down and heat the area gently with the sun or a heat gun. It sometimes works, and it doesn't cost much. The planking edges are more difficult, but the effect can be lessened by: sanding the paint rigorously with 220 wet/dry; applying a thin coat of 3M glazing putty to both sides of the ridges, and re-sanding. It will take more than one application, but each time it looks better.
 
Thanks, Next time I'll just take more time. Interesting ideas Gil. I'm faced with that "how bad do I want to fix this?" But the lesson is learned and I'm sure I can do better next time.
 
Not exactly on topic, but one of your photos suggested another small tip for you (not criticizing, just suggesting). If you leave the canvas overhanging a few inches when you fill and paint and then trim it down to its final level after painting, you'll avoid getting paint on the inwales and rib tops.
 
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