Indian Girl seat dimensions
- Thread starter jdm6593
- Start date
Pics of recaned front seat taken from bow using original pegs (in same holes) & binding. Identical to original pattern & weave.[/QUOTE]
Once again, a really clear picture. Thank you Thirsty. According to modern Hoyle, the cane should be 3.5 mm, which makes the hole size 5/16" instead of 1/4". That seems dramatically bigger, and will give a denser weave, but I guess I will try it with the 3.5 I ordered and see how different it looks. I think I might do a practice frame in both sizes to compare.
Once again, a really clear picture. Thank you Thirsty. According to modern Hoyle, the cane should be 3.5 mm, which makes the hole size 5/16" instead of 1/4". That seems dramatically bigger, and will give a denser weave, but I guess I will try it with the 3.5 I ordered and see how different it looks. I think I might do a practice frame in both sizes to compare.
And thanks to Thirsty I now have a PDF drawing of the bow seat for future reference.
View attachment Bow Seat frame.pdf
View attachment Bow Seat frame.pdf
I am new at caning, so I just finished a practice seat, intended for my daughter's double paddle canoe with a back rest, so it is quite large, and has Rushton's ~7/8" hole spacing. I am attaching a picture of it next to a modern factory canoe seat for size comparison. My remaining question on Indian Girl seats is what Rushton did on the corners of the caning. The corner on most chairs seems to be rounded enough for the cane to bend around. Not so on the Rushton or my practice seat. At present I have caning pegs in the corners. I am thinking of gluing those in and cutting a decorative top on them. Does anyone know what originally finished the corners on the Indian Girl? Looking at the two examples I have, it looks as if the binding cane was merely passed through the hole with perhaps a peg below holding it in position, as seen in Thirsty's seat above. Some of the photos look like there were pegs on top, but maybe that is only showing after the cane binding got damaged.
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thirsty
#8111
The corners were pegged. The first peg was inserted loosely to hold first binder. The second held the end of first and start of second. The second layed over top of peg..... & so on. The first peg is removed & replaced holding first & forth binder. Hope that makes sense. The binder was laced down at every other hole.
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Greg Nolan
enthusiast
If you are seeking to replicate what Rushton did, Thirsty's pictures appear show the way to go -- and I would never argue with efforts at an accurate replication of the original.
However, for those who may face the same problem with a canoe other than a Rushton IG, and/or who are not concerned with exact replication, here is an alternative that I chose when recaning Morris seats, after removing plastic cane, and not knowing what Morris originally did -- I "pegged" from the bottom using match sticks, two to a corner, not pushing them completely through, and gluing them (and the cane ends) in with Titebond.
From the top, the corners appear the same and the matchsticks are not visible. The binder cane is not bent over the hard edge of a peg, and so it think may last longer. At such a time in the future as I may have to reweave, the combination of matchsticks and cane should be removable without too much trouble.
However, for those who may face the same problem with a canoe other than a Rushton IG, and/or who are not concerned with exact replication, here is an alternative that I chose when recaning Morris seats, after removing plastic cane, and not knowing what Morris originally did -- I "pegged" from the bottom using match sticks, two to a corner, not pushing them completely through, and gluing them (and the cane ends) in with Titebond.
From the top, the corners appear the same and the matchsticks are not visible. The binder cane is not bent over the hard edge of a peg, and so it think may last longer. At such a time in the future as I may have to reweave, the combination of matchsticks and cane should be removable without too much trouble.
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Thanks Thirsty, makes perfect sense. The every other hole business seems a little like they were saving time and money, but that is part of the character of these boats. The folded over binder makes a neat finish and the remaining open peg gives the repairman a clue how to start.
And thank you too Greg. I certainly prefer the appearance of every hole bound. I am not so tied to the original that I wouldn't play with the hole securing method. I am considering converting to open gunwales, which is approaching criminal. That degree of wanton behavior might prepare the beholder for a shock when looking at the seats.
And thank you too Greg. I certainly prefer the appearance of every hole bound. I am not so tied to the original that I wouldn't play with the hole securing method. I am considering converting to open gunwales, which is approaching criminal. That degree of wanton behavior might prepare the beholder for a shock when looking at the seats.
