hogged hull

[Goldenbadger]

I've started my first attempt at restoring a canoe. I have a 1942 Shell Lake Deluxe Guide. The hull is hogged a little bit. It looks like about 3/4". Maybe more if there was some rocker to this canoe originally. At 3/4", do I need to fix this issue? I've read about people putting a weight in it with some towels and soaking them with hot water. Is this the best option? How long should I leave the hot towels in there? At what point in the restoration should I do this? Right now I have the fiberglass ripped off and all the resin off, but that's it. I have not begun removing planks, ribs, or thwarts and decks.

 

[Dave Osborn]

She'll Lake canoes were pretty flat originally...especially with half ribs. Hogging is common with this type of floor.
You can put boards under the gunwales and wedge boards under them down to the floor along the center line to try to re-train them.
Hot towels, boiling water, steam, may help. I gotta believe with all of the the half ribs that it may be a futile attempt.
Proper storage support will keep it from getting worse. Supports should be in thirds... 18' canoe supports should be about 6' apart. Hogging can be cause by support too close to the ends..causing sag. Usually it is improper long term storage that causes the problem.

 

[Goldenbadger]

It was stored upside down with supports way out toward each end, nothing in between, for the past 40 years or so. I can't really picture your description of wedging boards under the gunwales. Are the boards wedged from the gunwales to the center line at an angle? And how do you keep it from slipping out? And how long do you think it will take to retrain the hull to take out the hogging?

 

[Dave Osborn]

Imagine wedging a board lengthwise between the thwart and floor. Make the board "too long" so that it pushes down on the floor to counteract the hog. You can make other boards that fit under the inwales and put boards between them and the floor. No need to attach the cross boards...the other longer boards will hold them there.
Then lay in some wet towels for a few days. Then try dumping as much water as you can boil in the damp hull and towels. Then let it dry a week with the sticks in place. Y
You may want to lay a long board inside along the keel line to wedge against instead of against the ribs.

 

[Mark Adams]

I've found that clamping boards to the gunnels, then using spreader clamps (Irwin) to press down the floor works great. I do this when the canoe is is absolutely soaking wet from stripping. Then, I flip it upside down, and sight along the keel line. It works best with some 3/4 x 3 x 14' or so pine to fair in the pressure spots from the clamps.

HTH!

 

[Goldenbadger]

Thanks, guys for the help. I've ordered a tack puller so I can begin removing planks to expose the stems. I'm hoping I don't have to replace the whole stems and can just replace the ends.

 

[Goldenbadger]

Another question. I have a copy of the 1950 Shell Lake catalog page for this canoe. This is the earliest catalog available, apparently. It says the outside bows are protected with brass or aluminum bands. Mine is a 1942 model and there were no bands like that on it when I got it. Do you think this earlier model also had brass or aluminum bands originally?

 

[Dave Osborn]

Good points, Mark Adams....

Leanne...go with brass.... Original or not, it's classier.

 

[Goldenbadger]

Ok. So this may be a dumb question, but it had wooden outside stems. Do the brass stems completely replace the wooden outside stems? Or do they just go over them?

 

[MackyM]

The brass stem bands go over the outside stems.

 

[Goldenbadger]

Thank you, Macky.

 

[Dave Osborn]

I would be surprised if your canoe left the factory without stem bands. You should see small screw holes on the wooden outer stem where they were attached.
Go ahead and remove the outer stems. You will need to do that to repair them if needed and to prepair the hull for canvas.
Most often outer stems were originally painted as a part of the hull. Usually they are made of white oak and look pretty cool.
I like to strip the old paint and varnish them.

 

[Goldenbadger]

Thank you, Macky.

 

[MackyM]

You are welcome. Dave is right about the outside stems. They really look sharp when varnished.

 

[Goldenbadger]

The outer stems are already off. I had to do that before removing the fiberglass. I didn't notice any holes where a brass stem may have been, but I suspect that what I removed were not the original stems. I bet they were replaced when the canvas was replaced with fiberglass. I do like the look of varnished wooden stems. It also had an oak keel. I've read pros and cons of having/not having a keel. I will be using it both on the Mississippi River (maybe also other local rivers) and on lakes. I haven't decided on keel or no keel yet. I love the idea of brass stems on varnished wood. Dave, you once suggested painting her off white or cream. I love that idea. I think off white/cream with varnished stems and brass over that would be super classy. I sure hope I can do her justice.