I suppose that there are several options. I don't know anything about the design, but if you are using typical 1/4" canoe-type strips, keep in mind that if the hull is much wider than a canoe you may need to add something just to keep the bottom from bouncing. This kind of up-and-down flexing is really hard on the bottom and eventually leads to long, lengthwise splits down the bottom of the hull. The outside fiberglass is in the wrong place to help prevent it (in compression) so it's up to the inside layers and any other interior reinforcement to keep the bottom together (in many ways, the interior glass on a stripper is far more important and under more stress, in tension, than the outside fiberglass is).
The lightest option on the inside is fiberglass with the resin neatly squeegeed on the surface to remove excess. It has the highest fiber-to-resin and strength-to-weight ratios. It also provides a non-skid cloth texture. Drawbacks are that the texture looks like fiberglass and can pick up dirt easier, down in the weave.
Option #2 would be to add filler coats of plain resin on top of option #1 to hide the weave and then sand it to a smooth surface before painting. It would add some weight and you lose the non-skid, but you also lose the obvious fiberglass look. The sanding job isn't much fun, but without it it's hard to get a neat-looking fill job.
As long as you're sure that you can get them down tight to the hull without water-trapping voids under them, ribs could be glued-in on top of the fiberglass layers (the filled, option #2 surface would probably make a nicer looking base for them). Depending on the boat's beam and bottom shape, ribs could also be a contributing structural member to help stiffen the hull in general and resist bounce. This, however, is where you tend to fall out of the known world and off into uncharted territory. Ribs and/or half-ribs have been added to over-sized strippers as stiffening aids since the early '70's, but I don't think anybody has ever sat down and figured out a foumula for how big they need to be or how many need to be installed to gain a particular amount of strength and stiffness.
"Cosmetic" ribs, as thin as 1/8" would probably have big enough shadow lines to give the visual effect that the boat is ribbed, but the inside fiberglass layer(s) would need to be heavy enough to do the bulk of the structural work. Thicker ribs (like W/C canoe ribs) are big enough to be structural, whether you add a few to beef-up the glass, or space them like a canoe and eliminate the fiberglass. Deep, narrow ribs (like guideboat ribs) are certainly structural. Spaced a few inches apart, you could likely eliminate the interior fiberglass.
I'd love to be able to tell you exactly how many layers of what weight of fiberglass and what size and spacing of ribs might be needed to build the various options, but as far as I know, that information hasn't been figured out yet for stripbuilding and different bottom beam measurements and differing amounts of roundness or flatness in the bottom shape will also effect the potential answers. I'm sure that the job is do-able but you may be inventing the technology for that particular boat as you go.