shelldrake
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Curious about all of the interest in alternative fillers to the tried and tested tradition oil/silica fillers. Are you seeking lighter weight? Quicker cure time? easier sanding? Better durability? Please enlighten me.
Filler and more filler.
- Thread starter Dave Wermuth
- Start date
Joell Burdick
New Member
Good Info!
Rob Stevens
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
Yes, all of the above. Not necessarily any cheaper expense.
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shelldrake
LOVES Wooden Canoes
So, which of the alternatives checks all of those boxes?
None, which is why there is still so much experimentation.
Douglas Kestell
Lignum Linter Fanaticus
I just finished filling the canvas on my 1950’s Chestnut Ogilvy using the Zinssers primer and light weight joint compound method described in previous posts.
For starters, understand that I used #6 (21oz) untreated cotton canvas for this project as it had been recommended on the forum to match the original.
First, this heavy canvas is noticeably more difficult to stretch tight compared to my past (2) canoes I’ve done. Partly I’m sure is due to the canvas weight as well as the hull profile.
I use Woodlife CopperCoat (copper naphthenate) to treat the canvas after it had been stretch. I saturated the canvas outside on a warm sunny day which sped up the drying, tightened the canvas, and made the smell dissipate quickly.
The following day, I applied the first coat of Zinssers 1 2 3 Primer with a roller and worked it into the canvas just like I’ve done with conventional oil based filler. Note that the Zinssers Primer is 50.5% solids (clay, magnesium silicate, zinc oxide) per the Technical data sheet. I did this indoors as the dry time is 30 minutes. Applied 2 more coats with the roller alone, rolling in each coat a different direction. This took about a half gallon. I let it dry overnight.
The next day I made a a batch of 50/50 Zinssers 1 2 3 primer and Red Devil ultra lightweight spackling / joint compound. My guess is this mix is roughly 60 to 70% solids. It was a little thinner than the consistency of yogurt (not the Greek stuff). I tried to roll it but it was pretty sloppy, so I slopped the mixture on with a cheap 2” paint brush followed by a rubber autobody spreader. I let this dry over night.
The following day I went over the hull with 120 sand paper. I was a bit nervous so I sanded it by hand. I sanded until I could see the weave but before I went through. I vacuumed the surface and applied another coat of the 50/50 mix in the same manner.
I let it dry over night and sanded the hull with 220 grit paper. I applied a little more of the mix at the stem and the seam at the y-stern to fair them out.
I applied 2 more coats of straight primer with a light 220 sanding between the coats and after the final coat.
I did find a few spots that I had to touch up with glazing putty, but overall I’m satisfied with the results.
The Zinsser tech data sheet states that it reaches full cure / maximum hardness after 7 days.
I installed the keel today and I’ll wait till next week to start with the paint.
For starters, understand that I used #6 (21oz) untreated cotton canvas for this project as it had been recommended on the forum to match the original.
First, this heavy canvas is noticeably more difficult to stretch tight compared to my past (2) canoes I’ve done. Partly I’m sure is due to the canvas weight as well as the hull profile.
I use Woodlife CopperCoat (copper naphthenate) to treat the canvas after it had been stretch. I saturated the canvas outside on a warm sunny day which sped up the drying, tightened the canvas, and made the smell dissipate quickly.
The following day, I applied the first coat of Zinssers 1 2 3 Primer with a roller and worked it into the canvas just like I’ve done with conventional oil based filler. Note that the Zinssers Primer is 50.5% solids (clay, magnesium silicate, zinc oxide) per the Technical data sheet. I did this indoors as the dry time is 30 minutes. Applied 2 more coats with the roller alone, rolling in each coat a different direction. This took about a half gallon. I let it dry overnight.
The next day I made a a batch of 50/50 Zinssers 1 2 3 primer and Red Devil ultra lightweight spackling / joint compound. My guess is this mix is roughly 60 to 70% solids. It was a little thinner than the consistency of yogurt (not the Greek stuff). I tried to roll it but it was pretty sloppy, so I slopped the mixture on with a cheap 2” paint brush followed by a rubber autobody spreader. I let this dry over night.
The following day I went over the hull with 120 sand paper. I was a bit nervous so I sanded it by hand. I sanded until I could see the weave but before I went through. I vacuumed the surface and applied another coat of the 50/50 mix in the same manner.
I let it dry over night and sanded the hull with 220 grit paper. I applied a little more of the mix at the stem and the seam at the y-stern to fair them out.
I applied 2 more coats of straight primer with a light 220 sanding between the coats and after the final coat.
I did find a few spots that I had to touch up with glazing putty, but overall I’m satisfied with the results.
The Zinsser tech data sheet states that it reaches full cure / maximum hardness after 7 days.
I installed the keel today and I’ll wait till next week to start with the paint.
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