E.m.white 'bang Plate'

Howie

Wooden Canoe Maniac
Can someone provide me some pics of the 'bang plate' area on an E.M.White - especially at the top by the decks. I do have pics taken from my canoe, but the wood was a little rotted away and the copper a bit dented - see 1st pic. Plus I'm not sure the upper part - the part that forms a V around the tip of the deck - is original.

Also, can someone tell me where I can get the copper/brass ring rails that are used to attach the parts to the canoe. The shaft is 1/16" diameter and 5/8" long. The head is 1/8" diameter. Jamestown Dist. doesn't appear to have anything this small.

Also... I assume this stuff is copper. Yes?

20180924_163423.jpg 20181019_083113.jpg 20181019_083456.jpg

And a final question. I assume that when I reattach these parts should I apply calk (non-silicon) to the inside 'V' to help keep water out. Yes? Would make it a bitch to ever remove though...
 
upload_2018-10-19_9-54-4.jpeg
Howie,
Howie,
The bang plates were broken beyond repair on this canoe, but you can see the detail in this photo for the gunwale tip.
Dave
 
This is a 1989 built centenary 18' 6" EM White
The nails were not ring nails. I'm fairly sure all parts were brass.
Sam
 

Attachments

  • DSC01690.JPG
    DSC01690.JPG
    200.2 KB · Views: 438
  • DSC01694.JPG
    DSC01694.JPG
    126.4 KB · Views: 437
  • DSC01954.JPG
    DSC01954.JPG
    264.7 KB · Views: 433
Howie...when I looked at your boat it looked right and original to me. Before you put those back on let me know and I'll stop over.
And if you want to talk to someone that knows every little thing about the Whites, call Jerry or Rollin.
 
Thanks all for comments & pics.
SamB: I just checked - my nails are ribbed or ringed. Of course we're talking 1/16" diameter here, so there's not a lot of 'ring' to them!
Dave: Thank you! Escutcheon was the key word! Looks like #16 @ 5/8" will do the trick. Except that they are not ribbed/ringed...
Mike: I agree, mine is original. But under the topmost hunk of brass a lot of the wood was rotted out. I wanted to see what it might have looked like once-upon-a-time but didn't articulate it properly.
 
I have a picture squirreled away somewhere of the joint under the caps before I nailed them on. It might take me a few days to find but when I do I'll send it/them along. The rails extend out past the stem and get squared off..the caps are attached over that.
 
Howie,
I filled up the bang plate with bedding compound pretty well before nailing it back on. Without it, I suspect there is a lot of room for water to sit. It looked that way when I’ve removed them. You really need it watertight and with probably over 100 additional nail holes in your new canvas job, load it up.
You will also need to be sure that the stems are good enough to nail into. I recall filling a lot of nail holes on these.
I also predrilled the nail holes. I used a much smaller drill to give the nail a tiny hole to follow and go in straight. Those pins are soft and want to bend if they hit grain or a hard spot.
 
Dave - Yup... I'm with you. I predrill holes for ring nails and will do so for these 'escutcheon' nails as well. And yes, good point about being careful to fill up all holes in the stem & planking before canvassing.

Mike - I figured out the rail, stem, & deck interplay. And the rails didn't extend past the stem in this model. There's enough left of the outer rails to figure than out.

As to caulking the bang plate... A few weeks ago I sold a Langford to a fella who wanted to hang it from the ceiling, and he wanted the keel off. I took it off for him - and it came off easy. I used Ace Hardware's Acrylic Latex Calk between the keel & canvas. This was back in Sept 2017 and after 12 months the caulk was still nice and pliable. I'm thinking this stuff would be perfect for the bang plate: it's easily smooshable and cleans up easily.
 
Back
Top