Chesnut Bob special identification (age?)

[Luca Fournier]

Thanks again for the incredible assembly (first time and definately not the last!) Saw the nicest boats of my life.

I am going to restore this 15' bob special and would love to hear your thoughts on its age/characteristics. It was once part of a canoe fleet for this outdoor club and has since been stored up in a barn near Maniwaki in Quebec.

Width: Intense tumblehome! 31 3/4" from inner inwale to inwale ~37" at widest beam.
Wondering if the center thwart is pulling in more than per usual? The ribs near the center don't fully rest flat on the inwales.


Depth: 12"
Seats: Somewhat ornate

Deckplates: Heart shaped with undercut

Thwart: regular thwart which tapers in thickness (from 3/4" to 1/4" at the gunwales) most likely to put a temagami yoke on top
Ribs: ~2 1/8 - 2 3/8"wide x 1/4" thick (many to be replaced) spaced ~1 7/8"
Cant ribs: Planking
Keel: Shoe keel screwed in at every rib

Lots of wonderful work ahead. Thoughts? Be nice, its my first post .

 

[Todd F]

Luca, looks like a great project. Look forward to see how goes.

 

[James Carr]

Hey Luca,

I looked at that canoe when it was for sale, they had a few and a sponson if I remember correctly. Someone here will know better, but I think that notch in the stem points to an early canoe, pre-fire.

 

[Andre Cloutier]

Everyone here is nice! Centre thwart is right how it should be, the boats with shortened thwarts pull and make a straight line along the sheer, your shape looks good. Lots of indicators of a boat built before the 1921 fire, and open rail any time closer to the end. After 111 years, your ribs likely will be a little out of shape too. Great boat, take your time with it, cheers.

 

[Mud Bug]

That's a great canoe. You're gonna love how it handles. Mine's the handiest, most maneuverable canoe I ever have paddled. The relatively wide beam plus its low rocker lets it turn on its center and get out of bad situations other shapes wouldn't. Mine will need to be recanvassed in a few years, and when I do, I intend to put a lower, flatter, keel on it so it turns even better. Don't know if that's an historically accurate feature, but if it is or if you don't care, you might consider it if you want to turn on a dime and be able to cut smoothely across current. Before I pulled the canvass off my old Yankee, I took the keel off, and it was a huge help in current. (Sigh. It's still sleeping in the barn, bare naked.)

I'm not at all knowledgable about its history, but for what it's worth to you, the one I have is shaped very much like yours, and its decks are the same and are undercut. If I remember right, that was continued on the Specials after other models changed. Don't know why. I was told it was from the 40's, but that's never been confirmed for sure. Oh and, it has its keel screwed at every rib too. Maybe that was a Special thing? Don't know.

Not sure that was useful to you.

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Luca Fournier]

Had a nice time yesterday shaping the 16 ribs that need to be replaced. Today was a different day and things didn't go as planned. A good learning experience I guess but still tough!


I soaked the last 5ft of my inwales in water for 2 days, then poured boiling water on the last few feet to ease the bend along the old inwales. The scarf joint gave out while adjusting clamps after the bend.



Wondering what went wrong here. Could the soaking of the wood weakened the Titebond III bond? The wood absorbed and pulled the water all the way up to the scarf. I used a 8/1 ratio with a jig I made on the table saw so the joint seems good. Maybe I clamped the joint too hard and most of the Titebond III came out? Thinking of not soaking the inwales next time and simply pouring boiling water. At least they gave out at this step and not on a trip...

 

[Todd F]

I learn more from failures than easy successes. Look forward to your progress.

 

[samb]

When I'm fixing scarfed inwales / outwales, I make sure the join is in where there is least bend and avoid anywhere where they bend in both directions. (so usually at the centre) I steam them in in situ in a poly bag / tube making sure the poly tube stops well before the scarf, and if it ends near the scarf I do all I can to direct steam away from the scarf - maybe clamp the tube to direct any steam downwards and cover the joint with dry towels. I don't soak them first. I also use a 1:12 scarf and use epoxy.
Good luck next time
Sam

 

[pklonowski]

Similar to SamB, I use epoxy, and keep the heat AWAY from the glue joints.

 

[Luca Fournier]

Do you guys manage to clamp both inwales at the same time despite them meeting eachother at the stem since they aren't cut to length yet? Ill try the poly bag steam method without the pre soak.

 

[Luca Fournier]

Steaming the ends with the bag without pre soaking worked wonderfully. Thanks for the help. Might not have enough clamps for the other side! Oh well.

 

[patrick corry]

I'm following your project closely as I have a Bobs Special undergoing restoration at the moment. Similar condition, with about 30 rib tip repairs, 10 rib replacements, stem & deck repairs, new inwales, and about 65' of new planking. Just applied the first full strength varnish coat on the interior.

As I brought it home:


In progress:


Today:

 

[Luca Fournier]

Hey Patrick I've also been following your restauration. Love the photos you are posting. The rain is finally letting up so I will be working on the stems and rib tops this week.

 

[Worth Gretter]

Patrick, I'm at about the same point you are. I have done the rib tops, stems, decks, gunwales, and thwarts, but still have planking repair, fairing, canvas, and varnish ahead of me!
I posted pix of the rib top repair and a little bit on the stems, but I will try to pull together some other images and post them.
-Worth

 

[GGrant]

I agree with Mud Bug about the agility of a bobs and the keel info. The one I restored did not get a keel at all (my preference) and the side-to-side motion is quick and easy.

 

[Luca Fournier]

I agree with Mud Bug about the agility of a bobs and the keel info. The one I restored did not get a keel at all (my preference) and the side-to-side motion is quick and easy.

Any concern of the strength of the hull without a keel if I will be tandem with gear? (Considering the 1/4" ribs and age of the canoe)

 

[Luca Fournier]

Steaming the inwales using the original inwales as a form didn't create a good enough swoop up along the deck plates. Most likely as the new inwales were full stock (non-tapered yet) and stronger than the delicate OG inwales.

Decided to re-steam today with a jig. Having to do it in my apartment living room as it's too cold outside.

On another note. I finished scarfing about 40 rib tips and got a few coats of varnish on the new seats before the cold.

 

[Luca Fournier]

Also ran into another fellow wcha member (Gary) on Big Salmon lake last week as my friend and I were on a fall paddle trip in Frontenac. We were blessed with beautiful weather. Didn't manage to snap a shot of Gary's Chestnut Chum.

 

[GGrant]

Any concern of the strength of the hull without a keel if I will be tandem with gear? (Considering the 1/4" ribs and age of the canoe)

No concerns for load (two up and gear); if you anticipate pullovers and running dams or ledges, maybe. I’d be taking a different canoe for tandem whitewater tripping. Nice work on that ornery inwale !