Best way to remove planks for re-use
- Thread starter Ben Russ
- Start date
Rollin Thurlow
member since 1980
Start with he two center rows. Take the opportunity while the two rows are off the canoe to repair,/glue/patch any broken areas and then you can give it all a good sanding on the inside surface before putting the planks back on. Its also a good chance to smooth up the edges of the planking. Remove the old dried varnish and dirt that accumulated along the edges. Make the edges nice and smooth so the next row can fit tight against the repaired plank.. Don't do any heavy sanding on the outside until all the planks are back on the boat. Only remove one row at a time on each side. Most of the time the planking at the goring area and along the shear are tight enough so they will not need removing. If your lucky, all you need to do is to remove the first four or five rows. and then put in a thin plank to take up the new opened space,
Michael Grace
Lifetime Member
Hi Ben - Rollin's advice is great for removing and cleaning up planking. It is amazing how much junk gets trapped underneath ribs and between planks.
If all you're interested in doing is re-tacking your canoe, I'd first ask why. Are the tacks rusted to the point of no holding power? Are you concerned about iron stains? If the tacks are no longer holding the planking on, you should re-tack. Pushing the tacks out from the inside isn't really an option because the tips of the tacks are clenched into the wood. They can't just be pushed out, and if you try, you might do a lot of visible damage to the ribs. If you're suggesting pushing the planks off from the inside it might work if the fasteners are really rusted away, but if not you'll surely damage the planking. With brass and copper tacks, you can get under the head with a tack puller (outside the planking) and roll the tack out. Iron isn't nearly as malleable as brass or copper so they will be more difficult to remove. Given all this, when I've re-tacked iron-fastened canoes, I've just placed brass tacks in positions next to the old iron ones, leaving the old ones in place where they were.
Unfortunately there may not be much you can do about iron stains because no matter what you do you'll be left with iron or iron oxide in the wood. If you strip the wood you can treat it with oxalic acid to remove iron stains but even with a great varnish job, they will return eventually. I believe I once read in WoodenBoat magazine about a technique for chemically altering iron oxide in wood so that it was "encapsulated" (the author's term, if I remember correctly), but since then I haven't been able to find the article again.
If all you're interested in doing is re-tacking your canoe, I'd first ask why. Are the tacks rusted to the point of no holding power? Are you concerned about iron stains? If the tacks are no longer holding the planking on, you should re-tack. Pushing the tacks out from the inside isn't really an option because the tips of the tacks are clenched into the wood. They can't just be pushed out, and if you try, you might do a lot of visible damage to the ribs. If you're suggesting pushing the planks off from the inside it might work if the fasteners are really rusted away, but if not you'll surely damage the planking. With brass and copper tacks, you can get under the head with a tack puller (outside the planking) and roll the tack out. Iron isn't nearly as malleable as brass or copper so they will be more difficult to remove. Given all this, when I've re-tacked iron-fastened canoes, I've just placed brass tacks in positions next to the old iron ones, leaving the old ones in place where they were.
Unfortunately there may not be much you can do about iron stains because no matter what you do you'll be left with iron or iron oxide in the wood. If you strip the wood you can treat it with oxalic acid to remove iron stains but even with a great varnish job, they will return eventually. I believe I once read in WoodenBoat magazine about a technique for chemically altering iron oxide in wood so that it was "encapsulated" (the author's term, if I remember correctly), but since then I haven't been able to find the article again.
OP
OP
Ben Russ
Curious about Wooden Canoes
Thanks both of you, this is amazing.
The Langford canoes, from a certain era, came with steel tacks that aren’t clenched very well right from the start. Had one person report that it took them forever to remove and replace them all but that the planks were all essentially lose.
I will check mine before I start but the ones I have had to take out already, because they sat proud of the surface were very easy to remove.
The Langford canoes, from a certain era, came with steel tacks that aren’t clenched very well right from the start. Had one person report that it took them forever to remove and replace them all but that the planks were all essentially lose.
I will check mine before I start but the ones I have had to take out already, because they sat proud of the surface were very easy to remove.
Michael Grace
Lifetime Member
Do remove what you can. Why not? Fewer tacks means less rust. You might get lucky and get most of the tack heads out. And if you remove the planking, you can clean it up as Rollin suggested. If you do what he suggests (I always do with any planks removed), everything will go back together much tighter.
Dave Osborn
LIFE MEMBER
I can tell you that I’ve learned not to pull steel tacks from the ribs. Often times the steel tack will pull a hunk of rib along with it. When pulling brass tacks, they are soft enough that they partially un-clinch leaving little or no damage.
Consequently, I never save planks that are held down with steel. I split them up to remove them then use an angle grinder to grind the steel down to the rib, leaving the clinched end in the rib.
I’ve got a couple of “donor” canoes that I harvest planks from to replace the ones I broke up. The old patina from the donor usually matches up good with the remaining original planks.
Consequently, I never save planks that are held down with steel. I split them up to remove them then use an angle grinder to grind the steel down to the rib, leaving the clinched end in the rib.
I’ve got a couple of “donor” canoes that I harvest planks from to replace the ones I broke up. The old patina from the donor usually matches up good with the remaining original planks.
