Bedding Compound, filling holes


Enthusiastic Novice

First off, does anyone know of a suitable bedding compound that has some sort of brown color as opposed to white ??

Also, has anyone ever used bedding compound between the ribs and planking on a refurb ?? I removed all the planking on one half of the canoe as there were generations of fibreglass/sand/varnish that had worked it's way in between. I know that no matter how good fo a job I do tacking it back together there will inevitably be locations where gaps will exist so should I consider the use of a bedding compound in these locations ??

There was a keel on this boat that is not going back on. what can I use to fill the holes? i tried cutting wood plugs and epoxying them in place on a previous boat but I didn't like the results.

Several rib tips need to be replaced. I am considering using Titebond III instead of west system to keep costs down. Is this suitable ?? I like the initial tack idea. I know someone said there had been a discussion about this but when I searched I couldn't find it.

Peter Gilbert

here's a page with some pictures of a previous refurb I did, as well as visits with local builders around the province here:
Bedding compound also comes in a dark mahogany color. any place that sells the "natural" bedding compound should also be able to get the mahogany colored stuff.
It would not be good to put between the planking. When it was new it would be too soft and dust, dirt, shavings and everthing else would stick to it and it would also be easy to peel out. As it aged, it would dry out and crack and a lot of it would just fall out.
Colored epoxy is the best for the keel holes.

I'm a fan of TII. Below is old post on subject.

I’ve talked to some pros who don’t recommend it on canoes, but my experience . . so far . . .has been that on some applications it does the job.

I’ve used it on short inwale splices abutting the deck. I’ve used it to butt joint pieces of walnut to make a deck. I once put a big chip in the edge of a new paddle (on the blade) and spliced in a new piece with Titebond II. It’s quite possible that varnishing helps keep the glued joint together.

I once made a birdfeeder shaped as an octagonal gazebo. To roof it, I used the tiny cedar shingles available at dollhouse supply stores. Glued them on with Titebond II. The birdfeeder has been out all seasons (in New England) for ten years and not a cedar shingle has been lost.

I know a guy who’s a luthier and boatbuilder who uses it in both trades.

An advantage of Titebond II is the fast tack. It grabs hold in about half-an-hour. The problem I’ve had with epoxy—and I haven’t used it a lot, and it may be the brand I’ve used—is that it takes hours to grab and I’ve always had to construct very thorough clamping systems to hold everything exactly in place while the glue job sets. Then I have to hang around for hours monitoring the epoxy glue job to make sure nothing slips. With T II, after half-an-hour, I know whether I’ve got the job done right.

So, unless you’ve a lot of experience gluing with epoxy and use it a lot, T II might be the better glue for you. I would say an inexperienced woodworker is more likely to get a better joint with the glue that’s simpler to use.
Heres a thought for you!...I have been experimenting with T-II and using extran fine sawdust that I saved from cutting cedar with a planer blade.I mixed a portion of the sawdust in with the glue and when it set usp I could sand the end like a board end and then it took some stain it sand out smooth also....dont know how long it will last and I havent had a real need to use it yet but I thought I would see what happenes and so far looks ok
Thanks for the replies and tolerating some very novice questions. I appreciate the patience. I would rather ask simple questions here than screw something up on the boat.

I understand now that bedding compound is likely more of a sealer and is not meant to be used as a gap filler, duh :) Thanks Rollin.

Bob, what you refered to as superbond, is that simply either the laminating or penetrating epoxy that is listed on their web site or is there is a product they sell that I am missing that is called Superbond ??

Larry, I have ordered some TIII and will test it on a sample rib splice and rip it apart to see if it survives the test :)

And Viking I will test that one myself as well once the TIII shows up.

Thanks !
IT'S A LITTLE HARD TO FIND ON THEIR WEBSITE. type in superbond on their searchy thing. it's a 2 part 50/50 glue.
So Bob is that what these are:

2 Pint Kit

Item Description UM Price

those are the 2 components ? the resin and the activator ?

Thanks !