A Chestnut Canoe Project

[Caffeinated]

This Chestnut (A 1967 Playmate, from what I can discern from the measurements — 14 ft by 32 in. x 12 in and the 2-3/8 inch ribs) has been in my family since the early 1970s when my mother bought it new. She actually bid for it on the Channel 2 Auction (WGBH Boston) and if you remember a show back then called "Zoom," you may be interested (you may not) to know that part of the cast of the show sat in this canoe while they were auctioning it off. My mother paid $200 in 1972, which I estimate to be around half price for a comparable canoe at the time. ($1,020 in today's dollars.)

I love this canoe. But my evil brother neglected it for years and it's in rough shape (not awful, just beat up in spots). Now I want to fix it up. But I don't want to mess it up, so I'll be going slow. I'm pretty handy and I've built my share of furniture and other projects, but I do realize this is a little more craft-y than a lot of the more ham-fisted projects I've tackled. (Like the table in the photo that the canoe is resting on.)

I'm going to order the book on restoration that another user recommended in the forum, But I do have a couple of questions about the restoration that maybe you all can help me with.

1. What grade canvas is preferred for a re-canvassing? Can't seem to find that info anywhere.
2. Two of my planks are a little punky on the outside (canvas side), but are solid on the varnished side. Would you replace it or sand it down, putty it and save it?
3. There are cracked planks in a couple of spots (maybe because of those damn Zoom Kids!). I'm thinking these need to be replaced, but I'm wondering at what point one decides to glue and varnish and live with a small imperfection or two or go for broke and replace the whole plank. These planks are tapered and will require some shaping and care to replace. (See pictures)
4. This canoe has been at my boyhood lake house sine we got it. But we are selling the lake house so I've since brought it to my home on Nantucket Island. Any prohibitions with wood and canvas canoes and salt water? Any special varnish or paint recommendations? (We do have fresh and brackish ponds on the island as well)
5. The interior finish is dirty, but the varnish is not cracked or peeling. I like the patina, so I'm just going to give the interior a sanding and clean it up and then add a new coat or two or three of varnish without stripping it. Thoughts?
6. I think all of the important pieces are re-useable. I'd like to try to keep as much original material as I can. Any benefit to using new stuff on certain parts (like outwhales and the keel)?
7. Have I classified this canoe correctly? It is a Playmate, correct?

 

[Caffeinated]

More pics:

 

[Caffeinated]

Last few pics.

 

[Jan Bloom]

I had one about the same vintage. Use #10 duck or if you want to shed a few pounds use #12. Those late Playmates are way overbuilt with thick ribs. When you get the old canvas off you will have a much better look at what needs to be done. As long as the tips are in good shape and not rotten you probably do not need a lot. Do you have a copy of "The Wood and Canvas Canoe" by Stelmok and Thurlow. If not get it as it is a good guide. I believe there are other members of the WCHA somewhere in your neck of the woods. Fitting planks is easy, use a box knife and a block plane. Small gaps between planks are ok, some cracks are ok. It all depends on what you want to live with. I sold mine because it was way too heavy. Built a much lighter canoe about the same size.

 

[SWEETWATER]

i remember zoom, def. worth restoring . talk to fitz he is the man around here or steve lapey . there is a great chapter of wcha called norembega. pm either 2 men and i am sure they will point you in the right direction . keep the pics coming. i have a chestnut cronje that is awesome to paddle

 

[Larry Meyer]

I was wondering if it had been on Nantucket long, as I saw no copper "blooms." Yes there is a saltwater issue as the tacks (where ribs and planks are tacked together) are copper and they will corrode away if exposed to much saltwater. You will likely change your mind about the patina as its almost impossible to put new varnish coats over old varnish, residue and grime. Bring it back to like new and soon enough it will have a new "patina" of your own making.

 

[KAT]

That is in much better shape than mine was when I started. Mine came in at 57 pounds, albeit a late 60's Fox with skinny ribs, although that is with only one seat since I use it as a solo. At 14 feet it is too small for a tandem for adults.

Since you need to strip the canvas anyway, replace the broken planking and anything else and I would strip the varnish and redo that as well. First get in there and scrub it really well to see what is hiding under the grime.

 

[Caffeinated]

Larry, this craft has been on Nantucket all of 19 hours at this point. I have a few boatbuilding friends around these parts and will ask their advice. At the very least I will replace the square head screws along the outwhales with stainless.

KAT, It may be too small for a solo for me, as I am 6-4, 270 pounds. My dog likes to go with me and he adds an extra 60, unless he's swimming alongside.

Not looking forward to stripping the inside of this beast, but I guess anything worth doing is worth doing right.

G.

 

[Jan Bloom]

The square drive are bronze and good screws. Are you planning on paddling in the ocean?

 

[Larry Meyer]

There is not much that can be done to deter saltwater blooms, except hose out canoe after every saltwater trip. There is a canoe in Mystic Seaport small boat collection that went on a saltwater trip and its nothing but blooms. Looks speckled on the inside. Still that canoe is holding together after many decades as is. Replacing planking that is busted across the grain is preferable and pretty easy to do. Planking is thin, 3/16ths of an inch, and don't require a chain saw to trim and fit. If you do replace planking, then that is all the more reason to strip all the old varnish because your new planks, being clean and white, will really stand out from older planks. Besides Chestnut tended to use a cheap linseed oil based varnish that blackened with age. You will be much happier getting all the cedar back to its original creamy white. Appearance will be consistent and you will have a good base for applying a high quality varnish that will keep it looking good for many years to come. If you have no ribs to replace and the inwales and outwales are solid, you are way ahead of the game. The bronze screws are anti-corrosive and just as good if not better than stainless.
,

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Another "vote" for stripping it, not a fun job, but it is my favorite, as then you can see that the wood looks like.

Also, where you have "punctures" in the planking, you don't need to replace the entire piece, just replace the small section that is broken. If you are careful, you won't even know it was repaired.

Dan

 

[Caffeinated]

I will not be taking this canoe in the ocean, ever. That said, there are some inlets, small harbors and estuaries around the island that I would like to paddle (on days with little or no wind). We also have brackish ponds and some fresh water ponds on the island that I will try to explore. I've been all around them on foot, so now it's time to see them from the water.

On Nantucket, everything is white cedar. The houses are almost all clad in cedar shingles and my home also has white cedar natural trim, so I am familiar with working with this wood and I have a ready supply (Some window boxes that I have on my list to rebuild may become part of this canoe). Having torn away some of the old canvas, and allowed the cedar to dry out a little over the last few days I can easily see how thin and light the planking is. I should be able to shape the replacement planks by hand after roughing them out on the table saw.

This is shaping up to be a fun winter project. Now I need to make some room in my basement.