After the canvas is tacked at the stern and stretched, is it best to start at the stern end with the tacking operation and tack forward along the gunwales to the bow?
Hi Dave, starting in the center of the canoe and working your way to the end that is fastened did you have a problem with a bit of loose canvas when you got to the stern? Starting in the middle and working to either end on a double end wouldn't be a problem because the canvas is loose at both ends and any slack created during the stretching while tacking could be taken up when the canvas it tacked to the stems.
Here is how I do the flush method canvas at the transom.
“Cheater” staples hold the canvas at the transom. Stretch canvas as you would normally on the whole boat. Trim the canvas short at the transom so that 1/2” can be filed underneath and flush with the transom.
Use a flexible boat caulk (SikaFlex) in a syringe and apply liberally under the fold. Then staple through the fold.
Remove the cheater staples that were holding the stretch. All done. Haven’t had any leakers yet.
"Hi Dave, starting in the center of the canoe and working your way to the end that is fastened did you have a problem with a bit of loose canvas when you got to the stern"
Nope, no problem.
And I might add: Osborn has done hundreds more than me. He knows.
Dave Osborn, I have read you square stern post several times, nice work.
My canoe has what I would call a transom rib that the transom is attached to so unlike the OldTown the canvas on mine attaches to the transom rib. So it goes around the corner attaches to the rib and the transom bolts on over it.
You state in your post "Once the stretch is done, tack or staple the canvas along the gunwales as you normally would." Did you continue forward to the bow or go to the center of the boat and tack forward and aft?
Dave,
I likely started in the middle and alternated sides , for and aft. The stretch was held by the transom and the forward canvas clamps, with the cheater staples holding the canvas in place at the transom,