ken mueller
Canton, Ohio
I was wondering why paddles have different shapes? I can understand that you need a unique paddle for white water, but why different shapes for lakes? Which is best for small inland lakes?
Ottertail vs beavertail?
- Thread starter ken mueller
- Start date
Douglas Ingram
Red River Canoe & Paddle
Different shapes are mostly a regional response to local conditions. Any of the traditional shapes will work fine. They had to do pretty much everthing. They are the shapes that they are BECAUSE they work.
Choose one that you like. Stay more or less within the paramters of 6" width and 27" length throat to tip untill you know enough about why you want something different than that.
I go into much more detail on my website if you really want more.
Choose one that you like. Stay more or less within the paramters of 6" width and 27" length throat to tip untill you know enough about why you want something different than that.
I go into much more detail on my website if you really want more.
Paul Miller
Canoe Nut
Paddle shape
I think I read this in a Bill Mason book and it made sense when I read it and you can feel the difference when you paddle.
Paddle design determines paddle entry and the rate resistance builds during entry and stroke.
You will notice that Voyagers used a paddle thinner and longer than the Otter tail. They paddled in deep lakes for 12 to 14 hours a day. The thin long blade builds resistance slower with less shock to the arms and shoulders and makes it easier to paddle for longer periods of time.
Drawback, you can't push a lot of water as quickly as you could with a wider shorter blade that will give you a quicker response to your paddle stroke.
Hence whitewater paddles are wide and short. Also allows you to paddle with less water under your boat.
The Beaver Tail is a great compromise, a bit wider and shorter than the Otter tail. The Beaver tail gives you more response but allows you to paddle for the distances of small inland lakes without too much fatigue.
Most of us canoe nuts have all kinds of paddles and take the one the fits best the conditions we expect to paddle in.
Borrow a few from some friends and try them out.
If I could only have one it would be a Beaver tail.
It is interesting to note that Old Town, Peterborough and Willits all sold Beaver tail paddles with their canoes.
Good luck,
Paul
I think I read this in a Bill Mason book and it made sense when I read it and you can feel the difference when you paddle.
Paddle design determines paddle entry and the rate resistance builds during entry and stroke.
You will notice that Voyagers used a paddle thinner and longer than the Otter tail. They paddled in deep lakes for 12 to 14 hours a day. The thin long blade builds resistance slower with less shock to the arms and shoulders and makes it easier to paddle for longer periods of time.
Drawback, you can't push a lot of water as quickly as you could with a wider shorter blade that will give you a quicker response to your paddle stroke.
Hence whitewater paddles are wide and short. Also allows you to paddle with less water under your boat.
The Beaver Tail is a great compromise, a bit wider and shorter than the Otter tail. The Beaver tail gives you more response but allows you to paddle for the distances of small inland lakes without too much fatigue.
Most of us canoe nuts have all kinds of paddles and take the one the fits best the conditions we expect to paddle in.
Borrow a few from some friends and try them out.
If I could only have one it would be a Beaver tail.
It is interesting to note that Old Town, Peterborough and Willits all sold Beaver tail paddles with their canoes.
Good luck,
Paul
pklonowski
Unrepentant Canoeist
paddles
Another great resource for discussion about paddle types is David Gidmark & Warren Graham's book on paddle making. Don't recall the actual name of the book -- spent much time showing it to people at the WCHA booth at Canoecopia this weekend, but I slept since then.
This book has everything you need to know to make your own paddles, though you should be forewarned that paddle making is every bit as addicting as wood canoes. When you have two addictions, you never get anything done...
Another great resource for discussion about paddle types is David Gidmark & Warren Graham's book on paddle making. Don't recall the actual name of the book -- spent much time showing it to people at the WCHA booth at Canoecopia this weekend, but I slept since then.
This book has everything you need to know to make your own paddles, though you should be forewarned that paddle making is every bit as addicting as wood canoes. When you have two addictions, you never get anything done...
Bill Mackey
LOVES Wooden Canoes
Paddle types
Why just one paddle??? You dont't play golf with one club why must we .assume that there is just one right paddle for canoeing. A nice lake canoe trip might be on a glasslike surface at twilight or in a blow at noon. Select the paddle for the conditions and your ability to get the most out of it with the least energy expended. And don't forget all the fellowship you get just asking the question about favorite paddles.
Why just one paddle??? You dont't play golf with one club why must we .assume that there is just one right paddle for canoeing. A nice lake canoe trip might be on a glasslike surface at twilight or in a blow at noon. Select the paddle for the conditions and your ability to get the most out of it with the least energy expended. And don't forget all the fellowship you get just asking the question about favorite paddles.
ken mueller
Canton, Ohio
Thanks, all! I will keep my eyes open for a nice ottertail and give her a try.
Chuck Hoffhine
Wooden Canoe Nut
Paddle lenght
The length of the paddle is also important aspect in choosing the right paddle. I think the tendency is to use a paddle that is too short. I have seen people paddling with paddles that are shorter than some of my wife's wooden cooking spoons. My rule of thumb is the rule of nose. If your paddle is at least as tall as your nose is off the ground you are pretty close to an all around, general bow and stern paddle. It would be interesting to know what others think about this. -Chuck
The length of the paddle is also important aspect in choosing the right paddle. I think the tendency is to use a paddle that is too short. I have seen people paddling with paddles that are shorter than some of my wife's wooden cooking spoons. My rule of thumb is the rule of nose. If your paddle is at least as tall as your nose is off the ground you are pretty close to an all around, general bow and stern paddle. It would be interesting to know what others think about this. -Chuck
Giiwedin
Gouvernail
Optimum paddle length is a function of torso, seat height and canoe load. For maximum control, you want your blade to submerge almost entirely (i.e., where it begins to narrow abruptly into the shaft, but no more). To get the proper paddle length for proper submerging, you need to sit in your canoe, on the water, with the approximate load (people and duffle) you intend to carry. If in those conditions your paddle doesn't submerge enough, you need to lenthen the shaft; if too much, shorten the shaft. If you intend to kneel in the center and paddle solo, you'll need a shorter shaft (2" or more) than if you're sitting the stern seat. A stern paddle tends to have a longer shaft because many canoes (particularly guides) attach the stern seat right under the gunwales. Bow seats are hung lower (closer to the water) and, thus, commonly require shorter shafts.
Measuring paddle length while standing up (to the nose or eyes, take your pick) is at best a rough approximation and at worst totally misleading. That's because it combines (and thus confuses) shaft and blade. The former is key to proper paddle sizing, the latter irrelevant (although important for paddle power). Better to use the exact conditions in which you plan to use your paddle.
It's not uncommon to have a number of paddles of different shaft lengths for different boats and/or paddling conditions.
Measuring paddle length while standing up (to the nose or eyes, take your pick) is at best a rough approximation and at worst totally misleading. That's because it combines (and thus confuses) shaft and blade. The former is key to proper paddle sizing, the latter irrelevant (although important for paddle power). Better to use the exact conditions in which you plan to use your paddle.
It's not uncommon to have a number of paddles of different shaft lengths for different boats and/or paddling conditions.
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Dave Wermuth
Who hid my paddle?
my .02
As far as length, I like chuck's rule of thumb. I would say chin or nose. somewhere in there. A more precise description?---Robert hits it well.
My paddles range from 49" to 73".
I am 5' 12" tall. And I like the 49" paddle for hit/switch/go fast/cover ground (figuratively). it's a bent shaft. the long paddle is Shaw/Tenney guide paddle. i have not used it much yet. it is vary well made. it is heavy and strong. I am looking forward to using it standing up.
I am not sure but didn't voyaguers use rather short paddles.
marathon racers use relatively short paddles.
As far as shape? i think we use many different shapes based on conditions, asthetics, and what we happen to own. I am currently whittling a spruce Otter tail that i think is 58". And narrow, about 5" wide. should be very light and very quiet. I think an otter tail paddle blade sticks down a little deeper in the water. mY UN-expert thoughts.
As far as length, I like chuck's rule of thumb. I would say chin or nose. somewhere in there. A more precise description?---Robert hits it well.
My paddles range from 49" to 73".
I am 5' 12" tall. And I like the 49" paddle for hit/switch/go fast/cover ground (figuratively). it's a bent shaft. the long paddle is Shaw/Tenney guide paddle. i have not used it much yet. it is vary well made. it is heavy and strong. I am looking forward to using it standing up.
I am not sure but didn't voyaguers use rather short paddles.
marathon racers use relatively short paddles.
As far as shape? i think we use many different shapes based on conditions, asthetics, and what we happen to own. I am currently whittling a spruce Otter tail that i think is 58". And narrow, about 5" wide. should be very light and very quiet. I think an otter tail paddle blade sticks down a little deeper in the water. mY UN-expert thoughts.
ken mueller
Canton, Ohio
I did a search using "ottertail paddle" and found a very interesting post from the WCHA archives from 1998, by a man by the name of Caleb Davis. Some good stuff there, too.
