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Canvas wrinkles

Discussion in 'Wood and Canvas' started by Howie, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Andre Cloutier

    Andre Cloutier Firestarter. Wicked Firestarter.

    Is the Epifanes primer a "high build" type Andre? How many coats do you need to sand off to fill the divots?

    Yes its a filler primer, i dont know about high build but it does fill. I guess it depends on the divots, but i normally prime and sand, then prime and light sand again and paint. I epoxy fill canvas these days, so a smooth finish is easier to achieve without as much fear of exposing weave, and it that happens its an easy fix. hope that helps
  2. shelldrake

    shelldrake LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Thanks Andre. "Epoxy filling"; you are referring to thickened West System etc as a filler instead of the traditional linseed oil/silica stuff? Do you apply it with a roller and then work it in and smooth it by hand? I'm wondering why you end up with a smoother finish vs traditional filler.

  3. Andre Cloutier

    Andre Cloutier Firestarter. Wicked Firestarter.

    well, its harder than trad filler, and like i said it can be sanded more aggressively with no fear of damage that can’t be easily fixed should a repair or fairing become necessary.
  4. OP

    Howie Wooden Canoe Maniac

    I had enough primer left in the can to apply a 2nd coat. I must say that made a nice difference.

    However I sanded too far in several places to the extent where the canvas weave was visible. I then applied 2 paint coats (Epifanes deep green) and these area are still very much still visible - the canvas 'texture' is still very much visible. So I'm toying with the idea of reapplying some leftover drywall primer just to these problem areas. I figure they will 'fill' more quickly with the primer and will be easier to sand down. Or would I be better off skipping the primer and just dab on more paint just to these spots. Thoughts?
  5. Dave Osborn

    Dave Osborn LIFE MEMBER

    How many coats of paint do you normally apply?
    The same thing has happened to me. More paint and fine sandpaper has covered it up.
  6. MGC

    MGC Scrapmaker

    Yeahh...I just did the same thing in a few spots. The hull I'm painting is pretty uneven so there are some high spots that my first primer sanding pass got the best of. I've put on more primer and I'm carefully sanding again and plan to go back to those spots yet again when I'm done. Then paint. I'm assuming that I can get it to blend/disappear when I paint.
    Ain't this fun? 90 degrees, 99.99% humidity and sanding sanding sanding.
  7. shelldrake

    shelldrake LOVES Wooden Canoes

    I feel everyone's pain. I'm finally done prepping the filler for paint on my Atkinson Traveler build. Ended up sanding the filler with 80 and then 120 dry. Too hot to wet sand it out side and my chop has AC. I thought the fair, new construction hull would be easier to sand smooth without going too far, but I still broke through a little in a number of places. I rolled on one coat of Interlux Pre Coat, sanded it off and and then went over the hull with a small brush and re-coated any slightly exposed weave with Pre Coat. After the spots dried, I gently sanded them smooth with 120. This resulted in a pretty smooth substrate for the paint and two coats of rolled and tipped Kirby's Gray below the waterline looks pretty good. But, it was many hours of elbow grease and sweat and I'm still wondering if there's a better way. Perhaps not sanding the filler so aggressively, and using a marine fairing compound to fill all of the imperfections instead of relying on multiple primer coats?

    The build has been satisfying, except for this step.


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