Gunwale construction

Thank you. The seats were beyond repair. At some point a previous owner had nailed plywood over the frames (and ruined cane), and the bow seat had been moved so far forward that it was too small to re-position in the correct position anyway. I made new frames of Ash, and caned them in the Chestnut pattern. My fourth and fifth cane seats... I enjoy the process and have done two different patterns.
I love the caning. Were you tempted to use the artificial plastic caning? My understanding is that the natural caning stretches if it gets wet?
Would you mind explaining your thinking and why you did it this way?
 
Kevin, I hesitate to further drift from the original poster's thread about gunwales. If you message me I can fill you in with more detail regarding the caning process. Thanks, Pat
 
Hey Kevin, I've followed for years, Mike Elliot's excellent instructions in his book "This Old Canoe". You can't go wrong and it's not as difficult as you'd think and I find it an enjoyable task.
Gary
 
Hey Kevin, I've followed for years, Mike Elliot's excellent instructions in his book "This Old Canoe". You can't go wrong and it's not as difficult as you'd think and I find it an enjoyable task.
Gary
Thanks. I am now in the process of absorbing this book.
 
My first canoe was restored for me way back when. He used the steam bag method and called the outwales "trim" and they were small. Maybe 5/8? anyway I still have the canoe and it is going strong with the smaller "trim". It is an 18 foot HW that has been to Quetico several times.
 
I like the smaller size for the outer gunwales. I guess that would reduce overall canoe weight. The thing I am trying to sort out is the issue of keeping to the original or changing things up to some points of personal preference. If I were to sell my canoe, what reduces value?
 
I have been using the bending in a bag method for years now. I saw the demonstration by the now late John "Fitz" Fitzpatrick at one of the assembles 10 years ago or so and have been happy with the results since. It works very well besides the occasional burning of ones self. Insulated leather gloves most of the time. Just bent 4 rails caps a week ago or so.
 
I have been using the bending in a bag method for years now. I saw the demonstration by the now late John "Fitz" Fitzpatrick at one of the assembles 10 years ago or so and have been happy with the results since. It works very well besides the occasional burning of ones self. Insulated leather gloves most of the time. Just bent 4 rails caps a week ago or so.
Glad to hear such positive testimonials!
 
Hey Kevin, Hope the restoration is going well? I use the bag in place method and have never had an issue. I guy the double walled rolls of bags used in the food sealing machines available at any large store. You can cut them to any length you need and they last for multiple steaming's. I seal one end with two short pieces of rib stock clamped and then carefully slip it over the piece to be steamed. I then jam and old cloth in the other end around the rib and use spring clamps to help keep it closed. My steamer was from Lee Valley but you may have to look to a non electric solution?
I've attached a picture showing it in use when bending outwales for a very old Peterborough which I had to build a jig for as the canoe was built without inwales so I was reluctant to try and bend the new rails on it. Hope this helps?
Gary
DSCN3601.JPG
 
Bending in place while nailing through the bag. 3 mil, poly tubing. Very simple and easy.
 

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