Planking problems (just when you though you had gotten rid of me...)

[dumbquestionsguy]

Ok. What the crap? I've begun the planking process, and I keep getting splits in my planks. It's not even necessarily on the garboards, but sometimes on the 2nd or 3rd plank down, mostly in the quarters. I've used boiling water on them, I've even steamed them for a few minutes before putting them on, and I still am getting cracks. They start at the middle tack (of the 3 tack diagonal pattern) in the quarters, and it's driving me crazy. The design I'm using has a very fine entry, so there's a lot of "cupping" they need to do, but I'm just not sure what else to do, short of boiling the entire plank, which seems unnecessary. I'm not even sure I'm asking for answers, just wondering if I'm truly the dumbest person on here, and can't even plank a boat. Has anyone else run into this? Or am I just that inexperienced/bad/unlucky? I realize I'm sounding a little hysterical, but I'm breaking things at every step of this process. I'm beginning to wonder what I'm going to do with a form that took me half a year to build (and didn't come out that bad, really) that I can't build any boats on. So far this is turning out to be one of the biggest failures I've ever experienced (and there have been quite a few, people). Sigh...

 

[dumbquestionsguy]

AND... even though I start the planks close together amidships, by the time they run past the stems, there's quite a bit of space between them. This again perhaps has more to do with the physics of bending 3" wide pieces of wood around a complex shape, but it seems like it shouldn't be spacing out this much...

Seriously, people, am I having a way more difficult time than anyone else? Should I not be building these things? Sorry for once again being the anchor dragging enlightening discussion downwards.

Sincerely,
Debbie downer
a.k.a. dumbquestionsguy

 

[Andre Cloutier]

cracks

No biggie, stab them with an awl first, or better yet do what I do with western red and basswood and predrill. smallest bit you can find, works wonders.
Oh and get a wet rag and the iron, and run it along the length of the board over the wet rag- you'll see it bend and lay down before your eyes. Someone older and wiser told me that one.
Not a dumb question at all, really

 

[Scot T]

Good points Andre. I also learned from working with Western Red Cedar on other projects that if you're working with vertical grain (edge grain) the tighter the grain the more likely it is to split when nailed. It's always a good idea to drill those holes.

On the last canoe where I had to replace some WRC planking I did what Andre suggested and selected planks with quite wide vertical grain for the most extreme twists and had zero splits. Just take your time, let the moisture, heat and wood do it's thing and all will be fine.

 

[bill w]

Hi I planked a canoe with a hard bilge, with my first attempt,as mentioned I used a wet towel and iron that helped to prevent splitting but still splits occurred. On my second try I soaked the planking at least over night(pvc pipe might be good for this) and then with a iron and wet towel and slowly cupping the plank in place pretty much eliminated any splitting. Good luck on your project Bill

 

[Dan Miller]

The splitting is best dealt with by using a drill or all as others have mentioned. For the tack on the outside edge of the plank, take a scrap of planking and push it tight against the plank you are installing while driving the tack.

To get the planking to lay flat, hot water is your friend. Use towels, boiling water, and a little encouragement with your best clothes iron, and you will meet with success. The best planking stock is not truly verticle grain, but has grain on a slight diagonal.

There are two ways to deal with the way the planking runs to the stem, leaving a gap. One way is to fill the gaps with wedge-shaped filler pieces; acceptible, but not elegant. The other is to fasten the plank amidships, but then hold the plank on the stem where you want it to land, and using a finger or block plane, plane away the part that overlaps the previously installed plank. Easier to demonstrate than type - I think Alex Comb's canoe building video shows this process.

Cheers,
Dan

 

[Rob Stevens]

I'll chime in with a couple more tips.
Wet or steam the outside face of the plank only, so it naturally wants to cup to fit the mold.
Predrill yes, but use a tiny brad or finishing nail so you part the woodfibres without actually breaking the fibres as a drillbit would do.

Hope these suggestions help you to persevere.

Rob

 

[Dave Osborn]

Shrinkage!

Sometimes when I replace a section of plank that needs to be coaxed with hot water, etc. it fits well when I tack it in, but then when it dries it shrinks, leaving gaps. Any remedy for that??
Dave

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Ya, bend it and let it dry and take a set before you trim it to fit.

And I always predrill every tack hole, just not worth the risk of splits. I use a small battery drill and drill a bunch at a time.

Dan

 

[Paul Miller]

How more difficult does it get when the plank has a 45% beveled joint?????

I have gained mixed emotions about White/E.M.White canoes while doing my latest restoration. All of the plank has a 45% bevel and is very tricky when you have to replace the one garbor plank that has to fit under the adjoining planks who's edges rides over the plank you're replacing.

I use old growth straight grain WRC and cut the plank to the 4" width (yes 4 inches no less). Most of the plank maintains a constant width until you get to the last two rows to the gunnel. So you have to cut the shape and then the bevel.

I would soak the plank for at least over night, then I would form it over the spot when it would go, (don't remove the old plank yet, or set up on the other side) I also leave the piece about 12" longer than necessary if I have a difficult bend. Then I use bungee cord to keep it in place while I use ratchet straps to wrap around the canoe and slowly, with heat and water squeeze the plank tight to the spot it will be going. You may want to put something over the spot so you don't stain the under side of the plank you are soaking and strapping to the hull. Some times you will need little wedges under the strap to fit the plank good and tight.

Let dry and remove the plank to be replaced. I trim the ends and any other fitting necessary. Then I put the bungees back on and then the straps. This puts the plank just were it will need to be. I then drill the holes. I found that if the plank is tight in position as you nail it down you can still split the plank if you don't pre-drill.

This is my new technique that I just developed while working on the White canoe. I will mention that I used a lot more plank than the net amount of new plank now on the canoe.

I hope to save others of you some time, pain and suffering along with plank and tacks.

Good luck,

Paul

 

[Dave Osborn]

Thanks Paul. I've had thoughts of using the bungee/ratchet strap method. Just had never heard of anyone else doing it. We'll be doing it this evening on the war canoe project.
Dave

 

[Dan Lindberg]

Dave,

Sticks pushed against the ceiling and the plank also work, just be sure to use a thin one that is "springy" to keep the plank loaded.

Dan