Penn yan kingfisher s/n mcs106

bcurtis419

New Member
Just finished restoring a Penn Yan Kingfisher Square-stern Canoe that I bought in 1971 near Long Lake, N.Y. and am wondering what year it was manufactured.
The hull number is MCS 106

Bill Curtis
 
It was likely built sometime between 1934 and 1947. After 1947, the serial number would only have two letters.
 
I'm just starting to canvas a 1948 Penn Yan King Fisher. How did you stretch your canvas? Boat inverted or use the "hammock" technique? Thanks, Hal
 
I've always canvassed craft with a transom upside down on horses.....

Hi Dave,

Do you still stretch the canvas while the boat sits on the horses? And do you do the canvas on the transom before or after you do the hull?

Thanks! Hal Jaeke
 
I've never canvassed over a whole transom. Always left them bright. I suppose if I did canvas over the transom, I would do that first.
I canvas the hull upside down on horses just like with any canoe with a come along.
Stretch and Staple at the gunwales, finish off the bow, then put "cheater" staples around the transom to hold the stretch.
Cut it free and finish the final attachment to the transom, whether you make a fold to double it and staple it to the hull, flush with the transom or pull it over the transom and attach directly.
With the doubling fold, be sure to put bedding compound between the flood and the wood.
When pulling the canvas over and attaching directly to the transom face, I make trim to cover where it is stapled.
Hard to describe with out photos... I'll see if I can find some that help this make sense...
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

Sorry for the upside down photos....they are right side up when I uploaded them...
 
Last edited:
I've never canvased with a canoe upside down. always hanging in the air. i'm sure both work fine. It's probably just what your taught or get used to. Maybe I'll try the next one upside down. Yes cheater tax on the transom end and a double fold or tuck under with bedding compound. I have some photos of a nice kingfisher with a bright transom I did. If I have time today I'll put them up. If your doing it rightside up make sure you have at least 4 feet of canvas extra to pull with in the stern. Dave
 
Thanks SO MUCH Dave! The boat I'm working on did not arrive with canvas on the transom, so I wondered if it was always fair or not. Your description and pictures are quite helpful.I really like the way your boat transom finished out with the trim on the transom face!

Cheers, Hal
 
I have 2 Dave's replying! Pics would be great! I've also never done one upside down, but it sounds like it would work equally well. Please send the Kingfisher pics any any advice is always welcomed, as this is my first square sterner.
Thanks! Hal
 
001.JPG002.JPG005.JPGpete syak, kingfisher 010.JPG002.JPG003.JPG

For some reason I went over the old transom with a new oak. I can't remember the reason why I didn't replace it. But it worked out fine. I think the old transom was strong and solid just a mess on the exterior.
 
Last edited:
Hello Hal -

The Kingfisher transom was left uncovered, and finished bright. Attached is a photo of one of ours in original condition. I believe it still has its original covering and varnish, but it has been over-painted. I'm doubt the sacrificial wood for the motor mount is original - I've seen this treatment on many Kingfishers, but not all. On Kingfishers that do have them, they are in a variety of different shapes. Plus the Penn Yan catalogs that I have don't show this. The covering is attached around the perimeter of the mahogany transom. It's not tacked around the edge of the rear face of the transom, but rather into the end grain of the transom edge. I haven't restored one of these yet, so maybe someone who has will comment on what one looks like opened up.

Just saw your restoration photos, David - very nice!

Michael
 

Attachments

  • Kingfisher_MC49777_transom.jpg
    Kingfisher_MC49777_transom.jpg
    471 KB · Views: 469
Last edited:
Wow Dave, Great restoration! Thanks SO much for the pics, they are a tremendous help!Now I just have to "ger-r-done"!

Hal
 
If your transom has a rabbet around it, I would put in the cheater staples just short of the rabbet to hold the stretch, and cut the canvas short enough to fold the canvas under and staple/tack it into the rabbet...
No trim is required to cover the canvas like in the photos that I posted.
Be sure to apply a bedding or sealing compound under the fold.
 
Back
Top