Mounting a Shoe Keel

[Rick Platte]

For some time now, I've been intimidated by the prospect of drilling many holes in the bottom of my recently recanvased canoe to mount the shoe keel. I've replaced 12 some ribs, so there will also be some new holes in ribs and planking as well. The original keel being sound I've save it and filled existing screw holes with plastic wood. If anyone has any tips on how to improve my odds of a water proof conclusion to this task I'd appreciate it. I have bedding compound which I plan to use generously.

Thanks

 

[Dan Miller]

The simplest way is to just leave the keel off...

Cheers,
Dan
Member in Good Standing in the Keel-less Society

 

[davelanthier]

This method works for me. With the canoe upside down on saw horses place the keel exactly where you want it installed. Now run a full length of masking tape along the keel side adhering the tape to the canoe hull. Also place a piece of tape on the hull at each keel tip. The masking tape will be your guides for installing the keel. Now flip the keel over and butter it up with the compound. Instal the keel as per the masking tape and weight it down. You can also tape it in place to assure there is no movement. With the canoe still upside down on the saw horses start drilling and screwing [ don't go there ] working from the center to the ends. This is done, of course, sitting or kneeling under the upside down canoe. Check now and then to make sure the keel hasn't moved or to relocate the weights.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

I like that explanation. the tape...I've always used it for stem bands. Makes sense. However, i too am generally a believer in not jumping out of a perfectly good airplane and not drilling holes in the bottom of a perfectly good canoe.

 

[davelanthier]

I would argue that a shoe keel tends to be the back bone of a w/c canoe offering strength and protection. No matter how you treat the original wood of the canoe it has become brittle with age. If the keel is installed properly and you do regular canoe maintenance it will never leak.

 

[goldencub]

What I think you should do (and what I did) is first pre-drill the holes through the hull for the keel. Now you will know exactly where to locate the centerline of the keel. Also, if you plan to screw into existing screw holes in the keel, this will let you locate those holes and precisely position the keel in the fore-aft location - OR, if you plan to make new holes in the keel, this will allow you to avoid all your plastic wood filled holes. Now, actually mount the keel (temporarily!) using all the screws. Remove it, and slather it up with compound as Dave says. I also squeezed a small amount of compound into each hole in the hull, figuring that as the screw goes in, it will press some of the compound between the canvas and the planking, helping to keep things watertight. Good luck! Al D

 

[Rick Platte]

I want to thank everyone for their useful comments. This canoe has been a multiple year project, but I'm thinking this is the year to finish it. This weekend I'll take it down and decide whether to go keeless or not.

 

[pklonowski]

The keel can always be added later... try paddling without it, and then make the decision later?

 

[Rick Platte]

That's a good thought. thanks