Model Canvas Material
- Thread starter Brly
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Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Well, I started working on it a couple weeks ago. Been slow going, just working on it here and there after the kids are to bed. Hope to finish the planking tonight and then start on the canvas.
Having a ball putting it together! I'll probably make another, different model eventually. Learned a lot doing this one and will improve the form a lot on the next. I can see why a solid form is best!
1/6 scale, 14.5' EM White solo canoe (WillowWisp). I don't have the full plans, so there was some approximating. 29" OAL, 5" W at the gunwales. Maple stems and inwales, white cedar ribs, WRC planks, cherry decks, thwarts and outwales.
I would like to build this full size when my shop is finished. I'll have to see if I can get the plans from Jerry.
Thanks,
Ben
Having a ball putting it together! I'll probably make another, different model eventually. Learned a lot doing this one and will improve the form a lot on the next. I can see why a solid form is best!
1/6 scale, 14.5' EM White solo canoe (WillowWisp). I don't have the full plans, so there was some approximating. 29" OAL, 5" W at the gunwales. Maple stems and inwales, white cedar ribs, WRC planks, cherry decks, thwarts and outwales.
I would like to build this full size when my shop is finished. I'll have to see if I can get the plans from Jerry.
Thanks,
Ben
OP
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Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Finished the planking last night, ready for fairing the outside of the hull. The planks should be .026" thick for 1/6 scale. I made them closer to .050" so I'll have lots of room to smooth things out.
Also stuck in a picture right after the ribs were bent and another of the planks going on.
Also stuck in a picture right after the ribs were bent and another of the planks going on.
Rob Stevens
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
Fascinating project, Ben!
I have found working accurately to small scale is a challenge, both for paddles and canoes.
It is difficult/impossible to find and work with scaled down fasteners (canoe tacks), and wood has it's physical limitations.
How did you attach the planking to the ribs in this case?
I have found working accurately to small scale is a challenge, both for paddles and canoes.
It is difficult/impossible to find and work with scaled down fasteners (canoe tacks), and wood has it's physical limitations.
How did you attach the planking to the ribs in this case?
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Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Rob,
It's been a while since I've done anything with scale models. I did some car/truck kits when I was a kid and a couple RC Gliders in my teenage years. I'm really enjoying this!
Everything has been attached with superglue. I dampen both surfaces with water, put the glue on and it adheres almost instantly, which can be a bad thing if the piece isn't located exactly where you want it. A few seconds of firm pressure does the job. There were stubborn spots that I clamped until I was certain the parts were stuck. If more open time is needed I leave the water out. I only had 2 or 3 spots that popped loose after gluing.
I plan to make a paddle for it also. Probably use the same cherry that the decks/thwarts came out of.
It's been a while since I've done anything with scale models. I did some car/truck kits when I was a kid and a couple RC Gliders in my teenage years. I'm really enjoying this!
Everything has been attached with superglue. I dampen both surfaces with water, put the glue on and it adheres almost instantly, which can be a bad thing if the piece isn't located exactly where you want it. A few seconds of firm pressure does the job. There were stubborn spots that I clamped until I was certain the parts were stuck. If more open time is needed I leave the water out. I only had 2 or 3 spots that popped loose after gluing.
I plan to make a paddle for it also. Probably use the same cherry that the decks/thwarts came out of.
OP
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Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Sanded the hull, trimmed the rib tips and cut the planking down at the outwales.
Got the seat frame together and rough sanded. From other posts on this forum I was able to find 1.25mm (.049") cane. Should have that by Monday. I was hoping to get the canvas on this weekend, but I likely won't have time.
Outwales have been roughed out for a while, still need to cut the rabbit.
Haven't decided on paint yet. I don't want to buy marine grade paint and only use half a cup. Probably get some exterior paint locally if I can find a neat color.
Got the seat frame together and rough sanded. From other posts on this forum I was able to find 1.25mm (.049") cane. Should have that by Monday. I was hoping to get the canvas on this weekend, but I likely won't have time.
Outwales have been roughed out for a while, still need to cut the rabbit.
Haven't decided on paint yet. I don't want to buy marine grade paint and only use half a cup. Probably get some exterior paint locally if I can find a neat color.
OP
OP
Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Fitz,
I have a Grizzly baby drum sander that has worked great. I cut strips to the correct width on the table saw (1/2") and then rip 2 or 3 planks out oversize. Run them through the drum sander to final thickness.
I think the manual for the drum sander says don't go under .100" or so, but I've taken it down to .050" without issue. Adjustments get touchy when you get that thin, but I didn't lose any planks or ribs.
The ribs are made from white cedar shim shingles. Buy a whole bundle at the lumber yard for little money. I think they're about 16" long. Same deal, cut to width (3/8") on the table saw then thickness (.060") with the sander.
Gunwales, stems, thwarts, decks, seat frame, all of it went through the sander to get a uniform thickness to start with. There are some tricks to keeping really small stuff square. They tend to roll a little as they go into the sander and you end up with a rhombus shape instead of a square.
I probably wouldn't have tried to make a model this size without the sander. It's invaluable for this type of stuff. I've had it for years and ran tons of wood through it. Can't beat it for figured wood, zero tear out.
I laid out the taper on the ribs, rough cut with a knife and then finished up with a belt sander. Rounded the edges with a piece of sandpaper.
I have a Grizzly baby drum sander that has worked great. I cut strips to the correct width on the table saw (1/2") and then rip 2 or 3 planks out oversize. Run them through the drum sander to final thickness.
I think the manual for the drum sander says don't go under .100" or so, but I've taken it down to .050" without issue. Adjustments get touchy when you get that thin, but I didn't lose any planks or ribs.
The ribs are made from white cedar shim shingles. Buy a whole bundle at the lumber yard for little money. I think they're about 16" long. Same deal, cut to width (3/8") on the table saw then thickness (.060") with the sander.
Gunwales, stems, thwarts, decks, seat frame, all of it went through the sander to get a uniform thickness to start with. There are some tricks to keeping really small stuff square. They tend to roll a little as they go into the sander and you end up with a rhombus shape instead of a square.
I probably wouldn't have tried to make a model this size without the sander. It's invaluable for this type of stuff. I've had it for years and ran tons of wood through it. Can't beat it for figured wood, zero tear out.
I laid out the taper on the ribs, rough cut with a knife and then finished up with a belt sander. Rounded the edges with a piece of sandpaper.
OP
OP
Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Managed to get the "canvas" on yesterday. As samb stated in his thread, it was fiddly.
I received the mini cane Saturday. Sat down last night to work on the seat and realized I drilled 1 extra hole somehow. So, I'll be making a new seat frame, oh well!
Next will be filler and outwales. Coming along!
I received the mini cane Saturday. Sat down last night to work on the seat and realized I drilled 1 extra hole somehow. So, I'll be making a new seat frame, oh well!
Next will be filler and outwales. Coming along!
OP
OP
Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Filled the canvas and got the outwales on and shaped. I started cutting the outwale rabbit by hand and quickly ruined a piece when the cut split out the side. I made up 6 blanks, so had lots to work with. I set up the router with a fence and cut the rabbit that way, came out great. I'll probably get a coat of varnish on the inside, then hang the seat and put another coat on. Then paint!
OP
OP
Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
samb - Agreed, I probably wouldn't have tried a scale model without the sander.
The first coat of finish went on last night. Planned to use Epifanes matte varnish my wife had left over from another project but it had gone to jelly when I opened it up. Plan B was Danish Oil. Looks great so far, brought out that cedar glow nicely.
The first coat of finish went on last night. Planned to use Epifanes matte varnish my wife had left over from another project but it had gone to jelly when I opened it up. Plan B was Danish Oil. Looks great so far, brought out that cedar glow nicely.
Todd Bradshaw
Sailmaker
Looking really good! When are you going to start the one for your other foot and make the bindings?
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Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
This one is a little small. Probably be just right for my 4 year old daughter!
Busy weekend, didn't get a lot done. The seat is in and finish is on everything. The cane was just too big for this scale to do a proper caning job. I still used it, but couldn't complete the whole pattern. It gives the effect though so I left it alone.
I think it still needs more finish. The hardwood looks ok but the cedar is soaking it up big time. Once done I'll let it set up good. It did soak out into the canvas and filler but hasn't caused any problems. I should be able to wrap it up this week. Still have to get stem band material.
Busy weekend, didn't get a lot done. The seat is in and finish is on everything. The cane was just too big for this scale to do a proper caning job. I still used it, but couldn't complete the whole pattern. It gives the effect though so I left it alone.
I think it still needs more finish. The hardwood looks ok but the cedar is soaking it up big time. Once done I'll let it set up good. It did soak out into the canvas and filler but hasn't caused any problems. I should be able to wrap it up this week. Still have to get stem band material.
Rob Stevens
Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
chris pearson
Michigan Canoe Nut
I’ve written a couple of detailed articles for the Wooden Canoe Journal on building at this sale. I know you’ve already done this but for the 80 1/12th, 1/8th and 1/5th scales I have built I used double knit polyester fabric applied using contact cement and filled with buterate dope found at Aircraft Spruce company. I also found it very worth while buying their spruce as well, aircraft grade rated which means hardly any grain runout if any at all, really nice stuff.
OP
OP
Brly
Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes
Chris,
Appreciate your input! I've gone over all of the posts in the scale model forum and really admire your work. After working on this model, 1/12 and even 1/8 scale seems painful...
I used polyester bed sheet material for the canvas that measured .006" thick. Seemed to work ok but didn't have much give. Contact cement makes a lot of sense and I never even considered it! I used superglue applied to the outside of the canvas at the gunwales. It soaked through and stuck well to the planking, but turns the fabric to stone. I had a few bubbles along the gunwales that I ended up sanding completely through the fabric, leaving a small void to be filled.
I have no experience with buterate dope (heard about it) but will give it a try when I make another model.
You mentioned the aircraft grade spruce in an old post and again, it makes a lot of sense. I actually didn't have much trouble with any of the wood I used on this. I broke the end off of one cherry outwale due to grain runout. This canoe doesn't have much rise at the tips and I was able to bend them dry. Same with the maple inwales. The only reason I used maple is because I didn't have spruce and I wanted the dark deck / light inwale / dark outwale look. I'll have to try the spruce next time.
I put the first coat of paint on last night and stem band material is in the mail, headed my way. Thought I'd finish it this week, but that probably won't happen.
Appreciate your input! I've gone over all of the posts in the scale model forum and really admire your work. After working on this model, 1/12 and even 1/8 scale seems painful...
I used polyester bed sheet material for the canvas that measured .006" thick. Seemed to work ok but didn't have much give. Contact cement makes a lot of sense and I never even considered it! I used superglue applied to the outside of the canvas at the gunwales. It soaked through and stuck well to the planking, but turns the fabric to stone. I had a few bubbles along the gunwales that I ended up sanding completely through the fabric, leaving a small void to be filled.
I have no experience with buterate dope (heard about it) but will give it a try when I make another model.
You mentioned the aircraft grade spruce in an old post and again, it makes a lot of sense. I actually didn't have much trouble with any of the wood I used on this. I broke the end off of one cherry outwale due to grain runout. This canoe doesn't have much rise at the tips and I was able to bend them dry. Same with the maple inwales. The only reason I used maple is because I didn't have spruce and I wanted the dark deck / light inwale / dark outwale look. I'll have to try the spruce next time.
I put the first coat of paint on last night and stem band material is in the mail, headed my way. Thought I'd finish it this week, but that probably won't happen.
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