Hello - and a deck question

[SCE]

Hello, I’m a new poster, long-time lurker.

I’ve been restoring an OT 50-Pounder (#126211 - 13). To this point I’ve been able to get questions answered by searching this forum — there is a wealth of experience here, and folks are really good about giving helpful answers. I do have a deck-building question that I couldn’t find a 100% answer for, though:

Q: do you cut the new decks out and bevel the sides before steam-bending, or after?

Background:
Both decks are dry-rotted, so I’m building new out of 3/4 ash. The decks curve up by 1/4” along the last 4 1/2” of length to the point, and they are also domed by about 1/8” from the sides to the centerline. The sides are beveled by about 6 to 8 degrees. Does the cutting and beveling happen before or after steam-bending?

Of course I could be over-thinking this…

Sven

 

[Todd F]

Can you post some pics of your project? Look forward to seeing what you are working on.

 

[Todd F]

No judgement here. Been building a workshop for about 2 years and scavenging canoes for a few years. 16 to date. Folks here are the right folks to ask. Do share....

 

[SCE]

Sure…
These are the “before” pictures. Since then it’s been stripped and disassembled. I’m armed with saws and I think I know how to use them…

 

[Dan Lindberg]

You didn't ask but there are at least 2 methods used to get the curves on decks,
1 - bend them (the more elegant IMO)
2 - cut them from a thicker piece of stock

and finally as for final cutting - either before or after bending?
Joe Seliga learned long ago to bend 1st and cut/shape after bending.

Dan

Q: do you cut the new decks out and bevel the sides before steam-bending, or after?

 

[SCE]

Thanks Dan, that’s what I was looking for.

I’ll be steam bending the decks - working on the molds next week.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

A bit of bevel on the decks consists of a few strokes with a plane. Either before or after works. I'd do it after with a spoke shave. I also would likely carve the deck instead of bending.

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Actually I think i would bevel first. That way I can hold it easier in the vice.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Agree with the guys… bend first, then install the deck. Then carve it to meet the gunwales.
I’d start with an angle grinder and 40 grit. Then a belt sander with 60 grit, then a random sander for the final fit. And maybe you don’t even need to be that aggressive if you only have a 1/4” to remove.
As I often say, “leave it fat, and sneak up on it”.
In a much longer deck wit a lot of rise, I used a chain saw to rough it in once!
Generally, Old Town canoes with 16”, or 20” decks, I purchase them from Island Falls Canoe. They are bent correctly on original Old Town forms.

 

[Dan Miller]

Agree with the guys… bend first, then install the deck. Then carve it to meet the gunwales.
I’d start with an angle grinder and 40 grit. Then a belt sander with 60 grit, then a random sander for the final fit. And maybe you don’t even need to be that aggressive if you only have a 1/4” to remove.
As I often say, “leave it fat, and sneak up on it”.
In a much longer deck wit a lot of rise, I used a chain saw to rough it in once!
Generally, Old Town canoes with 16”, or 20” decks, I purchase them from Island Falls Canoe. They are bent correctly on original Old Town forms.

That sounds a bit like Bill Miller removing fiberglass with an axe.

 

[chris pearson]

Steam bend Fifty Pounder decks? Not needed, they are pretty short. Cut from solid stock and bandsaw…..

 

[Dave Wermuth]

Chris. Good point. I missed that part