Fiberglass bow repair

ktniemeyer

New Member
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I purchased a fiberglass canoe from 1975 on Facebook marketplace and it’s in great shape other than a small spot of damage on the bow deck. Previous owner said they never repaired it because it’s above the water line, but I’d like to, especially since it seems like it’s cracking a bit. If I repair it my self can anyone recommend what products I should use? Maybe even recommend a brand? I’ve attached a few pictures, as a new boat owner I don’t even know how severe this damage is, should I even be trying to repair it myself?

Follow up question, there are no attachment points anywhere on this boat for bow and stern tie downs to transport, anyone have a recommendation for adding some? I’m not sure that tugeyes are a good idea because I might be weakening the hull by drilling holes and I’ve read they aren’t the best point to attach tie downs because it puts uneven pressure on the hull.

Thanks for any help!
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The previous owner may have had the right idea. Repairing these cosmetic issues can result in a bigger mess. Here there is separation and chipping of an overly thick gel coat. It's not something to worry about structurally but it does detract from appearances.
If you have never used glass or laid up gel coat to sort out one of these canoes, you should be aware of a couple things.
It's fussy work to make it blend and it's well within most folks abilities to do if you take your time.
The biggest problem you will have will be color matching. If it were me and if I were going to try to improve that, I would be planning to re-paint the entire deck after the chips are sorted out. That's me. You could also try to use dies to color match, but do so knowing that whatever you do, it will be visible to the critical eye.
Step one, remove all of the chipped gel coat.
Step two, carefully fill the spots back in. Use either glass resin, body filler or West Systems thickened G-Flex. I'd probably use the G-flex because of the long cure time and how easy it is to shape and color.
Depending on the amount you build, either sand or file to smooth. You will need to repeat this process several times to get a decent result.
When you are happy with it, mask everything around the decks and paint. I would spray, not brush.
The challenge to achieving an as new appearance is that the gel coat was originally finished in a polished form as a build up layer. There is no way that you can duplicate that now. And, paint is not going to resist scratching and use the way that hardened gel coat has.
WRT tiedowns, I've used wooden braces jammed under the rails inside the hull near the decks to use as tie points for bow and stern lines for car topping.
For use on the water, think about bonding a couple tie points in.
 
It would appear that you probably have an Old Town "Ojibway" model canoe, which was a semi-decked whitewater touring canoe. By 1975 the model had disappeared from the catalog, so your boat must have been built somewhere from '71-'74. They built both a 16' version and a 13' version. As a general purpose canoe they handle very nicely, with keel-less and somewhat rockered hulls making them good for river paddling without being too extreme or slow. I once paddled a marathon in one and survived. Another time we rigged one with an adapted Grumman sail rig and sailed it. The boat should have shipped with rope grab loops on both ends for lifting and to use as tie-downs. I don't remember whether they passed through the boat horizontally at the ends or came out vertically from the tops of the stem areas. If that is a hole about 1/2" in diameter on top of the stem that may be the answer. This is a scan from a 1971 catalog.

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Yeah, I forgot about those little guys. We sold quite a few of them back in the day, but I can't say I ever saw anybody using one. The Rushtons were kind of filling the role that little roto-molded plastic kayaks fill these days - small, easily handled by kids or smaller people and back then, fairly inexpensive. Most of ours went to folks who lived in fancy houses built around small lakes. Somebody must have slammed that one into the ground really hard to yield that much damage and gelcoat cracking. It is possible to try matching old gelcoat colors by buying white polyester resin gelcoat and mixing in small amounts of artist's oil paint to see if you can get pretty close to the proper color. A small amount of oil paint added doesn't seem to affect the gelcoat's strength, but color matching can be a tedious process that may or may not be worth the trouble. Crack-filling is also possible, but tedious. Using something like a Dremel tool with a cone-shaped bit you follow the crack and enlarge it to a small V-shaped trench in the gelcoat (not deep enough to cut into the fiberglass cloth). Then you overfill the trench with new gelcoat, sand it smooth and buff it out. Not a fun job, but it is possible.
 
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