Deck decals for restorations

patrick corry

solo canoeist
I wonder what is the general consensus among restorers about applying a manufacturers deck decal, hopefully a period appropriate one, to a refreshed canoe.

My current project won't receive finishing details until Spring, but I have been pondering this element. It's clearly an old canoe and a perfect, fresh decal might detract from it's obvious patina. Having said that however, there is a lot of new wood in this canoe due to it's abuse and neglect over many years. So, maybe the new decal doesn't matter in that sense? Lastly, the canoe is clearly a Chestnut so is 'labeling' it really necessary or desirable? Apparently Buckhorn Canoe Co. has the correct decal for a Chestnut of this vintage.
 
There may not be a consensus since this usually falls in the category of 'it's your canoe...' My personal preference is to add a period correct decal reproduction if the original one is completely missing. I am curious to know if others have strong feelings on this topic.

Benson
 
Here's the bow deck as I received it.
90675BFA-0072-40C0-A30E-CC75271DBC9B.jpeg



And, after cleaning and bleaching black stains & tip rot removed and replaced with Ash scarfed repair. Bow deck on the right.
tempImageV5vDgF.png
 
I try to preserve what is present, but would never consider putting a replacement on an old canoe unless it was an original.
Replacement decals I have seen are generally not accurate. A replacement (if one is being used) should be an exact match including method of attachment, IMHO.
I saw an attempt at a Rushton decal recently that was incorrectly colored, the wrong size and on the wrong background. Why would someone put that on a fine old canoe?
Having said that, I have seen some Chestnut decals that look pretty close to original. I used replacement side decals on the Prospector I recently did and they look pretty good.
 
As a restorer, I'd be with MGC
As a repairer I do whatever is asked for
As an owner I do what takes my fancy at the time.

Sam
 
It depends on the canoe: how original it is, the rarity of the canoe, and condition of the canoe, the condition of the new decal.
And the new decal should either be NOS or a very good repop.
And common canoes I have less concern about that rare canoes.
 
I am 100% OK with NOS and also don't have an issue with re-badging a relatively common boat. Where I come a bit unglued is seeing a makers badge replica attached to a canoe or an extremely rare decal replica attached to a scarce boat. Case in point, I worked pretty hard to get a Morris with an intact decal. I know I own the only good original example of a particular manufacturers decal. It bugs me to see poor copies of it.
I felt the same way about the Miata's when they first came out. The owners would pull up with the "look at me" air about them in their modern reliable replicas of the Healey's I was driving. All I could think was what do they know of balancing the SU carbs or hitting the fuel pump points with a hammer to get the car started? :confused:
 
Carbs! That's a blast from the past!
My 1967 Saab 96 had triple Solex carbs. It was Saab's final attempt to get more power out of the 3-cylinder, two-stroke, 900-cc engine before they switched to a 4-cylinder, 4-stroke the next year.
Thanks for the memories....
 
I personally don't care what anyone else does with their canoes because (1) they are theirs to do with as they please, and (2) I can't do anything about it. On my canoes, decals and builder's plates are very important - they are the crowning jewel of the canoe.

I have a two nice Morris canoes with beautiful, intact, original decals and will save them when (if) the time for restoration comes. Same with canoes from some other makers - with them I'll also keep the originals because they are intact. Otherwise, I work to get an exact replica. Usually this means making it myself or finding someone with the expertise to do it right and the willingness to really do it right, perhaps through multiple iterations. Background color, artwork colors, details of the artwork... and for brass nameplates, size, thickness, lettering font, lettering depth, background infill, etc. - these all matter. I've seen repros and had repros made that just didn't measure up. Not good. This isn't arrogance; so much work goes into a quality restoration that the final product deserves the best. A quality reproduction decal (or plate) should be right at home on a well restored canoe with its reproduction varnish, canvas, paint, and/or whatever else.

A significantly restored Chestnut is a great candidate for a nice decal and while I'm not Chestnut expert, it appears that there are some nice replica decals out there, certainly nice enough to dress up your canoe and give homage to its maker. But if in doubt, leave it off. You'll have a nicely restored wooden canoe that you'll enjoy without a decal, and you can always add one later if you wish.
 
Actually, I think Michael has pretty much summed it up and well. Do what you do as you do. Do what you think is best and that satisfies what you think is right and others will do the same.
Possibly the poorly done reproductions are really a blessing in that 100 years from now that faux Gerrish plate or Rushton decal won't be mistaken for original.
And hah...yes, (massaged) SU's can be balanced but only a select few have ever mastered the triple solex.
 
Back
Top