Greetings everyone, I have finished with filling the canvas on a Racine canoe, 16.5' long by about 60" at its widest beam. I am getting ready to paint but don't really know how much to purchase. I am planning on using Interlux Brightside with the primer and sand between coats. As this paint can be fairly pricey I was looking for your assistance in what volume I may need. Thanks very much in advance.
Amount of paint to purchase?
- Thread starter Scotty
- Start date
Dave Osborn
LIFE MEMBER
Scotty,
The amount of paint depends on your satisfaction level on the finish. I find that I need 4-6 coats with sanding in between to get what satisfies my eye. For me, the sanding is really fairing the hull, nocking down high spots and filling low spots. If you aren’t concerned with pock marks and divots, 2-3 coats might be enough.
One quart might make 4 coats. I always make sure I have more than a quart on hand.
It can also depend on color. White, yellow and red don’t cover well so more coats are needed.
You’ve come this far, don’t let a $45 can of paint stand in the way of a good job.
I’d buy two quarts.
The amount of paint depends on your satisfaction level on the finish. I find that I need 4-6 coats with sanding in between to get what satisfies my eye. For me, the sanding is really fairing the hull, nocking down high spots and filling low spots. If you aren’t concerned with pock marks and divots, 2-3 coats might be enough.
One quart might make 4 coats. I always make sure I have more than a quart on hand.
It can also depend on color. White, yellow and red don’t cover well so more coats are needed.
You’ve come this far, don’t let a $45 can of paint stand in the way of a good job.
I’d buy two quarts.
Todd Bradshaw
Sailmaker
I generally don't use more than two coats with Brightside and I don't use primer as I don't believe it actually does anything. If the surface has truly been sanded smooth, then there is nothing to fill and primer does not seem to improve the bond, but it is certainly optional if you have areas that need fairing. I also do not generally sand between enamel coats. If there is something offensive going on, I usually use the green Scotchbrite pads instead. The paint is applied rolled and tipped using a yellow WEST System foam epoxy roller and tipped out with a chip brush. A quart of Brightside would do a canoe with no problem. A quart was enough to paint the green parts on this sailboat with still a bit left over. I used their dark green with just a touch of black added to darken it, painting with a roller in one hand and the tipping brush in the other hand. Naturally, I was painting in the "deluxe paint booth" at our previous house - also known as out in the gravel driveway. Expect the first coat to look like crap. If it doesn't, then you probably didn't roll it out thin enough. The second coat makes all the difference.
These photos were taken three years later. The boat had been sitting outside 24/7 all that time and had spent the previous summer out on a mooring buoy. It was in for spring clean-up and about ready to re-launch. Brightside is good paint.
These photos were taken three years later. The boat had been sitting outside 24/7 all that time and had spent the previous summer out on a mooring buoy. It was in for spring clean-up and about ready to re-launch. Brightside is good paint.
Todd Bradshaw
Sailmaker
I didn't measure it. Brightside is one of my favorite paints and I've used it on several boats, but I wasn't all that fond of their dark green shade. I had some black Brightside left over from painting parts of our trimaran, so I just added it by eye to the green until I got what I liked. I don't remember it taking very much. I am not a great boat painter, especially with a brush, but that particular brand and rolling and tipping has allowed me to put out some very respectable paint jobs - and all without thinning or otherwise "adjusting" the paint. It was all used straight out of the cans.
On my '72 Old Town Guide I wanted a pretty pale yellow, not curb yellow, so I used a custom shade of Ace Hardware Polyurethane Floor Enamel, rolled and tipped. It was much less expensive than Marine paint and went on well, but that one tended to end up with a very uniform slight orange-peel texture. It's not bad, but not quite as smooth as Brightside. The paint job on my wood strip fur trade canoe was done mixing a couple shades of Home Depot's Behr "Epoxy Concrete and Garage Floor Enamel". It rolled and tipped very smoothly, then it got some little grain lines, made with a hard rubber roller with tiny rubber ridges glued to it, which were cut from a piece of a floor mat. Then it got some sprayed color-shading variations with the same paint.
On my '72 Old Town Guide I wanted a pretty pale yellow, not curb yellow, so I used a custom shade of Ace Hardware Polyurethane Floor Enamel, rolled and tipped. It was much less expensive than Marine paint and went on well, but that one tended to end up with a very uniform slight orange-peel texture. It's not bad, but not quite as smooth as Brightside. The paint job on my wood strip fur trade canoe was done mixing a couple shades of Home Depot's Behr "Epoxy Concrete and Garage Floor Enamel". It rolled and tipped very smoothly, then it got some little grain lines, made with a hard rubber roller with tiny rubber ridges glued to it, which were cut from a piece of a floor mat. Then it got some sprayed color-shading variations with the same paint.
