1950ish Peterborough(?) Cedar-strip Rowboat

greatgray

Curious about Wooden Canoes
I have started my next project - restoring the cedar-strip rowboat that my father-in-law purchased to use at his cabin in NW Ontario. The cabin was built in 1951 or 52 and I believe the boat was bought around the same time. It has been referred to at times as a Peterborough, but I have been using the boat for 36 years and the only name I ever saw on it was a "Drycraft" label on either side. Some pictures in her current state of disassembly are attached. Around 1995 I rescued her from the weeds that had begun to grow in her stem. The effort resulted in replacing her stems (in and out), deck and having a new transom built. My boat-working skills were rudimentary then (they are marginal now), so rather than trying to replace the rotted ribs in her bow, I installed some sister ribs in her bow along with replacing the bench seats and the various thwarts and knees. However, at the time I noticed that a number of the ship-lapped planks were split along the laps. My solution then was to simply caulk the splits. It worked for the last 15 years or so, however, the last couple of years it was pretty dicey whether my son would make it from the landing to our dock before the water was up to his knees.

Which brings me to today. I hope to complete work that will allow my 22 year old son to enjoy for the next 35 years when it will then be his turn to rejuvenate her. That primarily means I will be replacing better than 50% of the ribs and replanking the bottom where the laps are split.

However, after studying the boat's construction I have a few questions. The cedar strips (white, I presume) are continuous bow to stern. That means that their widths are not uniform. What is the best way to replicate these shapes on the new strips I install? Also, should there be some type of bedding compound (Doflinite maybe?) on the laps? Finally, I has always assumed the ribs are Oak. However, after reading about Peterborough boats I am now thinking they are Ash. Is there any concensus on that? 045.jpg043.jpg042.jpg041.jpg
 
My circa 1925 Lakefield canoe has rock elm ribs, these do not have a pronounced grain, quite distinct from oak.
 
A somewhat similar boat that I'm working on has red oak for ribs. Mine is about 70-80 yrs old. I've already replaced the transom, and I'm just starting the process of replacing ribs. I've purchased white oak; it should be a much better choice. Red oak is porous and allows the easy migration of moisture through the wood, while white oak has vessels that are blocked and impede the movement of water. I don't think ash is as rot resistant as white oak, but I have seen it used for ribs before on these types of boat. I also have a 106 yr old Lakefield canoe; it has the rock elm ribs mentioned by Paul.

I'm probably going to have to replace all the ribs on mine, as they're pretty bad. I have the garboard planks removed for access to the rib nails that go into the keelson; I wanted the structural integrity of continuous ribs all the way across as the boat was originally built.

Tapering (and rabbiting) the planks requires a long jig to hold the planks in a bent configuration while they're sent through a shaper or router table. It's a pretty long jig, and will require support through its full travel.

Good luck on your restoration!

Cliff
 
Thanks Cliff. Do you have any more details in the jig? Maybe some photos?

Sorry I can't help you with that; I don't have one (yet). That's something you'll need to work up on your own, unless someone here can provide details.

Cliff
 
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