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Winter Project Update

Discussion in 'Strippers, Stitch-n-Glue, and Other Wood Composite' started by Dan Lindberg, Mar 22, 2005.

  1. Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    I haven't posted updates here on this years project, partly because it's not a W/C but here is where I'm at. I needed to build it becasue I need a real stable/light canoe for BW/Q trips with the wife. So this is referred to as Jan's Canoe. (much to her dislike) :)

    Just got the 1st fill coat on last night.

    Ist pic is under layers (2), 2.3 oz at 90 degrees, w/peel ply to avoid sanding edges.
    2ed pic is pulling top layers (2) off roll, 2.85 oz.
    3rd pic is wetting out top layers
    4th pic is after 1st fill coat.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. dboles

    dboles LOVES Wooden Canoes

    Very nice work Dan.Is that a feature strip along the side.What are the dimensions and design?
    "I needed to build it becasue I need a real stable/light canoe for BW/Q trips with the wife. So this is referred to as Jan's Canoe." A good idea too shes getting a canoe whether she needs it or not,might steal/borrow that rationalization(?) from you for my next one.Subtle and very smooth Dan- more nice work
     
  3. OP
    OP
    Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    Hi Dan,

    Yes, there are a few narrow redwood strips for accent, 2 on each side and 2 or 3 in the bottom.

    The design, it's a modified John Winters Quetico (from Martin Step's Green Valley site). Sense the main concern was stability (for the wife), and we have a W/C that we are very comfortable in, the Seliga, I increased the size/cross section by 5% so that the 4 to 5" waterlines are close to the Seliga, this was about 1 3/4" wider at the gunwale. I also decreased the rocker by about 1/2 to make it track straighter (the BW/Q is mainly lake travel, the portages are there for a reason). I've previously built 2 of Winters Winisks, a "sister" to this design, and they take too much correction (for my taste). I also changed the shearline to match the Winisks, just cause they look so nice. The original Quetico has a higher bow and lower stern and I don't think it looks good, plus I don't like the low stern. (don't want to get too wet by following waves).

    The goal is under 50 lbs and I still have hope of making it, not too bad for a 18' 7", wide, tripping canoe.

    Dan
     
  4. garypete

    garypete LOVES Wooden Canoes

    50 lbs for an 18-footer?

    Dan,
    I'll be interested to hear what the weight comes in at with your double-layer system of 3 oz. cloth. What woods will you be trimmingit with?

    We're building three 16' x 35" modified Prospectors of white cedar at my shop this spring, varying only the wood used for trim. My son-in-law, a brick mason, is in great shape so cares little about hull weight--he wants a stylish bullet-proof canoe for hard usage on rivers. I'm watching every ounce as I finish mine in hopes of a sub-50 lb BWCA canoe. My son is going middle of the road with his for weight and style. So we have several different sets of gunwales, seats, decks, and thwarts in the shop from several different species.

    I was amazed at the difference in weight from one canoe's ash, and cherry, gunwales to the other canoe's spruce and basswood gunwales. Likewise, my son-in-law's long decks of ash/cherry laminated woods are unbelievably heavier than my cedar short decks and short carrying thwarts. Cherry seats from 1 x 2s seem twice as heavy as my spruce 7/8" x 1.5" seats.

    I'm convinced that the way to save weight in a canoe is with trim, rather than by using 3/16" strips or skimping on fiberglass. When I get the final weights of the finished ash/cherry trimmed canoes and the finished spruce/basswood trimmed canoe, I'll post them.

    Gary
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    Hi Gary,

    Yes, you have to watch the trim weight close.

    On my 2ed, also 18 1/2 ft, the hull was 40 lbs, (3/16 wood, multiple layers of 2.3 oz glass) but the trim ended up at 18 lbs.

    On this one, durability, lightness and stability are the main drive'rs so:

    The wood is 3/16 on the bottom, 7/32 on the chine and 1/8 on the sides. This reduction in weight (calculated at about 7 lbs) is offsetting a bit more in the glass and epoxy compared to the 2ed. If 6 oz is the standard, the 2ed was stronger by a little to a lot depending on where and which direction. This one ranges from 1.3 to 3.1 times as strong as 6 oz, not as strong as #2 in some areas but stronger in others, a better/more balanced layup.

    Trim - spruce gunwales in and out, decks will be just very small pieces (cherry) that cover the stems and a bit more. Seats/thwarts/yoke are planned to be a cherry/cedar/cherry laminate.

    I've been weighting everything as I put it on and unforcanately it took (I put on) a lot more resin to wet and fill then I planned, some will be sanded off but it got heavy. Once the outside is sanded and the hull popped off the moulds, I'll weight it and get my first real indication of final weight. My calculations indicate that with how it has been built so far, the hull should come in at just under 41 lbs (40.86).

    Dan
     
  6. garypete

    garypete LOVES Wooden Canoes

    16' Prospector Hull Weight as Comparison

    Dan,

    The first of our three Prospectors came off the mold at just over 40 lbs. That was with 9/32" white cedar strips, 6 oz cloth, and two extra rolled-on epoxy coats after filling the weave. That's will be the bulletproof one with ash and cherry trim, long cherry decks, and a bulkhead behind the stern seat. I doubt if the final weight will come in under 65 lbs.

    Gary
     

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