fred capenos
Canoe Pilot
I need to touch up some rib ends and I read about liquid epoxy. What is it and where can I buy some? Thanks Fred
liquid epoxy
- Thread starter fred capenos
- Start date
Epoxy is a two-part resin and hardener system that comes in many flavors. Most boat builders stick with one of the major three: West System, System 3 or MAS. You can mail order them from the usual suspects, Jamestown Distributors, Hamilton Marine, etc (Google is your friend). Smiths CPES is an ultralow viscosity epoxy, Git-Rot is a one part wood hardener. All of them will work, you may find the standard epoxies more versatile in your shop.
Warming up the rib ends will help the epoxy penetrate.
Warming up the rib ends will help the epoxy penetrate.
John Elliott
River Rat
I use the west System a lot repairing pianos and really like the vesatility of it. They have a thickner you can add to it if you want to build with it and you can dye it also.
"O"
"O"
OP
OP
fred capenos
Canoe Pilot
Thank you one and all.
I've used "Loctite" epoxy for years with good results but find it too stiff to use as a crack adhesive. For some reason I thought Git Rot was used to stop the decay in wood and not an adhesive.I ordered some today.Also, Thanks for the "warming" tip! It's really neat when little tips like that pop up without solicitation. I just get smarter every day.
Fred.
I've used "Loctite" epoxy for years with good results but find it too stiff to use as a crack adhesive. For some reason I thought Git Rot was used to stop the decay in wood and not an adhesive.I ordered some today.Also, Thanks for the "warming" tip! It's really neat when little tips like that pop up without solicitation. I just get smarter every day.
Fred.
Fred,
Another tip for making epoxy more liquid is to add solvent to it. I have added either xylol or toluol. Just enough to thin it out. Both are kind of nasty so work where it is well vented.
Denis
Another tip for making epoxy more liquid is to add solvent to it. I have added either xylol or toluol. Just enough to thin it out. Both are kind of nasty so work where it is well vented.
Denis
I forgot to mention.I restore log buildings and have used "Git Rot'" in that application. Basically what you are doing is filling the cell structure with the epoxy, which of coarse doesn't rot, nor take up moisture. For rot to occur you need moisture,air,and the cell structure. If you eliminate any of those you can't have rot.
Denis
Denis
OP
OP
fred capenos
Canoe Pilot
Thanks Denis, Fred
Rollin Thurlow
member since 1980
the standard two part epoxy's will not work if the object is to solidify an area of rot. They will not soak deep into the cells of the rot like the specialty items like Git Rot. the std epoxy will just sit on the surface of the rot and it may look good and cover the exterior but it does nothing to stop the rot or strenthen the area of rot. Most of the items like the Git Rot may take several days to really cure to a harden finish. It may may seem to be hard over night but it will still be gummy if you try to sand it. Thicken epoxy can be added over the Git rot as a gap filler but not before the Git Rot is fully harden. If you apply the epoxy too really it wil not adhear and could just break off.
Rollin
Rollin
OP
OP
fred capenos
Canoe Pilot
Thank Ya Rollin
Fred
Fred
Paul Miller
Canoe Nut
Cpes
I have used both and would recommend the CPES. The stuff is like water and gets everywhere.
I have used in on canoe parts as well as planking for boats prior to attaching to the frames. Should make the wood last much longer because it does penetrate the wood instead of just sit on top.
Good luck,
Paul
I have used both and would recommend the CPES. The stuff is like water and gets everywhere.
I have used in on canoe parts as well as planking for boats prior to attaching to the frames. Should make the wood last much longer because it does penetrate the wood instead of just sit on top.
Good luck,
Paul
Gary Willoughby
Boat Builder
I have been using West systems sense 1980 and you need to be very careful about using any solvent mixed with it. You need to try a small amount of anything you mix with it to see if it gets hard. I know from experience of having to remove hafe hard expoy from a boat.
Dave Nagel
This Year's Obsession
Tacking and epoxy hardness
Great discussion, it brings a question to mind though. I have some rib tips that would probably be fine if they were soaked in epoxy and dried. I assumed this would make them too hard to drive tacks into so I was planning on splicing them as I have to replace some planking and the gunwales.
Is it still possible to drive tacks into the ribs after you epoxy them? If so are there any tricks to it?
I look forward to your answers.
Dave
Great discussion, it brings a question to mind though. I have some rib tips that would probably be fine if they were soaked in epoxy and dried. I assumed this would make them too hard to drive tacks into so I was planning on splicing them as I have to replace some planking and the gunwales.
Is it still possible to drive tacks into the ribs after you epoxy them? If so are there any tricks to it?
I look forward to your answers.
Dave
Michael Grace
Lifetime Member
Dave,
The sharp brass canoe planking tacks should go through just fine (this is true in my experience), but ring-shanked nails used for attaching ribs to gunwales would probably split a rib top that had been significantly repaired with epoxy. But the solution is easy- just pre-drill pilot holes through the rib top using a bit that is only very slightly smaller than the diameter of the ring nail's shank. This will give you a good snug fit, and the nails won't split the rib.
Michael
The sharp brass canoe planking tacks should go through just fine (this is true in my experience), but ring-shanked nails used for attaching ribs to gunwales would probably split a rib top that had been significantly repaired with epoxy. But the solution is easy- just pre-drill pilot holes through the rib top using a bit that is only very slightly smaller than the diameter of the ring nail's shank. This will give you a good snug fit, and the nails won't split the rib.
Michael
Todd Bradshaw
Sailmaker
There is a good article on the pros and cons of thinned epoxy here: (click on "Epoxy Techniques and Materials" then scroll about half-way down on the page that comes up and click on the article "Thinning WEST System Epoxy")
http://www.epoxyworks.com/indexprojects.html
http://www.epoxyworks.com/indexprojects.html
