Twisted boat

I have received a 30 year old canvas canoe project that needs fairing and canvass, but it has developed a twist after twenty years in the rafters. The bow points right about 3 degrees and the stern slopes to the left about 3 degrees. It is enough to notice. Any ideas on how to straighten the boat?
 
Depending on make, It may have been that way since new. You could leave it, or take it apart and re-adjust. Or if it really is from being in the rafters, you could turn it around in the rafters and wait for 30 years. Just kidding.

If it needs fairing and it is thrity years old I wonder if it might be a Chestnut? And if it needs fairing maybe it was a few degrees off to begin with?
 
There have been previous posts about soaking a boat, removing the gunwales and decks, detaching the stems,then reshaping the hull by pulling/pushing one side forward or back, then re-attaching the decks, stems and gunwales, once the stems are plumb/in line. I have only done this alignment with a newly built wood/canvas canoe.
 
Thanks for the ideas, this is a home built canoe, so it was likely that it was twisted from new. I would like to get it in the water this spring, so I will pass on hanging it for the next thirty years. Although it seems like a lot of work, it sounds like pulling it apart is the way to go.
 
Spend a little time codgitating on how you'll figure out if the ends are straight before you start the disassembly. It can be an interesting exercise in geometry.

Planking doesn't always run true, one inwale can be higher than the other, one side may be flatter than the other... the possiblities are endless.
 
If it's been in the rafters for 30 years the wood may be dessicated, thus the warp. Wet her down, allow the wood to soak up some water, it may straighten back up.
 
Check to see if when sitting in the rafters the gunwales only touch at three points not four. If so , soak the canoe well put it back in the rafters but clamp the gunwales to the rafters at four points with some good sturdy clamps. You may have to do this several times to get it back but the clamps are doing the work not you. What do you have to lose.
 
I'm no expert, but wouldn't you want to make sure the four points to which the canoe is clamped are in the same plane, otherwise you may not be getting the desired effect?

OR

Would you set it up such that the clamping does more than bring it back into plane (overcorrect), to allow for springback? This can be an issue with bent glue laminations, so I'm wondering if it also applies here?

I have no expertise in the field; these are just questions that come to mind. :confused:
 
The 4 point test would show up on saw horses. I wouldn't over correct until it was close to perfect. Also when soaking the canoe, soak the gunwales as well. When all else fails be reasonable, and give it time to correct itself. You can do all the harder choices if this doesn't work. Soak it, clamp it, soak it clamp it, etc. while you plan where to take it canoeing. Good luck.
 
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